Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: J. Fassett
Page Views: 174 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 30, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Think you got the guns, girly man? Well you may want to climb like a girl on this one; techy, techy, techy!

Girly Man would be a 2-star climb if it started from the ground. As it is, you can take the easier (but more involved) approach by traversing way right from the start of Victims of Fashion (1 or 2 bolts and some small cams along the way) or you can take the more direct but much harder approach by climbing The Knuckle Head.

Girly Man would be a 3-star climb if it ended at the top of the beautiful, golden dihedral, as that's where the good climbing ends. From the anchors of The Knuckle Head, dive into difficulties right away trying to get established into the dihedral. Put on your dancing shoes, and climb the ultra-technical corner for 6 bolts with a bouldery mantle move in the middle. Once the corner start, trending right, continue slightly left. Clip an old piton and 1 more bolt, then run it out (or place gear) to an old 2-piton anchor. Clip this anchor and climb through one more bulge on big holds to the ledge above and an anchor positioned on the blank shield of rock.

Note that one rope will NOT get you back to the ground (not even a 70 meter)! The easiest way to get back down is to lower back to the anchor of The Knuckle Head with a 70 meter rope and then lower again from this anchor to the ground.

Location

See above for options on how to access the base of this climb.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-3 pitons; Anchor with lowering rings.

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Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
There's no need to "run it out", just place gear as needed. The dihedral is more flaky peg just like "The Engagement". Oct 30, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12a
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12a
Yes, you can also place gear at the top instead of running it out. The climbing once you exit the dihedral drops to 5.8-5.9. It's up to you really. Oct 31, 2014