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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: J. Fassett
Page Views: 108 total, 3/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 30, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Think you got the guns, girly man? Well you may want to climb like a girl on this one; techy, techy, techy!

Girly Man would be a 2-star climb if it started from the ground. As it is, you can take the easier (but more involved) approach by traversing way right from the start of Victims of Fashion (1 or 2 bolts and some small cams along the way) or you can take the more direct but much harder approach by climbing The Knuckle Head.

Girly Man would be a 3-star climb if it ended at the top of the beautiful, golden dihedral, as that's where the good climbing ends. From the anchors of The Knuckle Head, dive into difficulties right away trying to get established into the dihedral. Put on your dancing shoes, and climb the ultra-technical corner for 6 bolts with a bouldery mantle move in the middle. Once the corner start, trending right, continue slightly left. Clip an old piton and 1 more bolt, then run it out (or place gear) to an old 2-piton anchor. Clip this anchor and climb through one more bulge on big holds to the ledge above and an anchor positioned on the blank shield of rock.

Note that one rope will NOT get you back to the ground (not even a 70 meter)! The easiest way to get back down is to lower back to the anchor of The Knuckle Head with a 70 meter rope and then lower again from this anchor to the ground.

Location

See above for options on how to access the base of this climb.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-3 pitons; Anchor with lowering rings.

Photos

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Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
 
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
 
Yes, you can also place gear at the top instead of running it out. The climbing once you exit the dihedral drops to 5.8-5.9. It's up to you really. Oct 31, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
There's no need to "run it out", just place gear as needed. The dihedral is more flaky peg just like "The Engagement". Oct 30, 2014