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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Kalous
Page Views: 109 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Jun 4, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This extension to Under Pressure adds some exposed climbing high off the ground and a one-move wonder dyno crux to reach the top of Lower Grotto Wall. While you can split this climb up into 2 separate pitches, I suggest running the pitches together into one mega pitch as the first anchor isn't the most comfortable to hang out and belay from and there is a great rest stance right before the 12b crux. If linking the pitches together, extend the last bolt and anchor of the first pitch with long runners to reduce rope drag.

From the p1 anchor, make a rightward traverse with powerful undercling moves past the first bolt and a great rest. Reach high to clip the 2nd bolt and immediately into the crux, which is followed by a hand jam and fat undercling rest. Easier climbing gets you to the anchor at the top of the wall; the terrain between the last bolt and the anchor is protectable with a 1" cam.

LOWERING: Because of the traversing nature of the climb, it's easiest to bring up your second and then walk off. With a 60 meter rope, it's also possible to lower off to the p1 anchor (tram in while cleaning), re-thread the rope through the anchor and lower off again. A 70 meter rope will just barely get you to the ground from the p2 anchor; tie a knot in the end!

Location

This is an extension pitch to Under Pressure, which starts just right of Twin Cracks.

Protection

4 bolts, optional 1" cam; chain anchor.

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