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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Steiger
Page Views: 2,496 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tobin Sanson on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1--Traverse (protected by a 1.5 cam) right to the first bolt. Continue up the shallow dihedral passing a second bolt. Place a gold Camalot and a red Alien then run it out to a fixed pin located at the top of the dihedral. Lean out left and clip the bolt and climb over the bulge (crux) to chain anchors under the roof (5.11a).

Pitch 2--Pull the roof just right of the chain anchor (5.12b/c) and continue 25' to chains (bolts).

Rap from there with one rope (85') or keep climbing a 3rd pitch through loose rock 70' (5.10a).

Location

20' right of Cryogenics.

Protection

Bolts, #1.5 cam, gold Camalot, red Alien, chain anchors.

Photos

j fassett
tucson
j fassett   tucson
The first ascent party did pitch two with out a single bolt! The bolts on the second pitch should be removed, show a little respect!

JF Aug 19, 2008
Lynn S  
The first pitch is very fun. A little footwork moving past bolt 1 then great holds all the way to a couple pumpy moves over the bulge. One of my favorite pitches on the Pass. Jul 5, 2011
Bill Mustard
Silt, CO
 
Bill Mustard   Silt, CO
 
Alright this rig needs a serious hardware upgrade. Just pulled the 3rd bolt loose cleaning it last week. I'll be back soon with the drill and some shiny add ons. Jul 8, 2018

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