Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: M. Baker, B. Perlmutter, 1991
Page Views: 1,979 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

This is a nice, pumpy line just right of the first pitch of Twin Cracks. Start on Twin Cracks or climb the unprotected and 5.9ish slot to the right. Place a piece or two in a flake and move right to the first bolt. A couple of difficult moves, including some stemming, lead to a layback and a difficult clip of the last bolt. Another 20' or so of easier unprotected or gear-protected climbing leads to the anchors.

Protection

4 bolts plus the anchors plus gear. I placed 5 pieces of gear, 2 before the first bolt and 3 after the last bolt, including a nut, 3 finger-sized cams, and a yellow/#2 Camalot. The guidebook says bring only a 0.5 cam, in which case you want to place that before the first bolt.

Location

Start as for Twin Cracks, then move right below the cracks to the first bolt.

Photos

slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
good climbing marred by awkward bolt placement. did the FA party get drunk in the parking lot, blindfold a dude, spin him around, and have him shoot 4 paintballs at the wall? Jun 15, 2009
Probably a three star top rope and a two star lead. Like the previous poster said the bolts are in wierd spots. Just tr it after twin cracks. Nice sequence through the crux! Makes you think a bit. Shares anchors with twin cracks. Jul 13, 2009
Lynn S
  5.10c
Lynn S  
  5.10c
Bolts are in odd spots but the climbing from just below the first bolt (green Camalot) to the anchor is really fun, cool movement. Jul 15, 2009
Jason Ogasian
South Lake Tahoe
Jason Ogasian   South Lake Tahoe
4 bolts were replaced on this route in January 2012 thanks to support from the ASCA.



safeclimbing.org/ Oct 17, 2012
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Great warm-up. Moves from the first bolt to past the last bolt are fun and engaging. Forgot to bring gear for this one, and it wasn't too bad. Aug 10, 2015
Ramsey Houck
Fort Collins
 
Ramsey Houck   Fort Collins
 
There are holds just where you need them on this route. Awesome! I used a 0.75 before the first bolt and a couple finger pieces after the last bolt. However, all the self-placed gear is just for peace of mind as the climbing is much easier in these spots. Jul 22, 2018