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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Forrest, et al(?)
Page Views: 124 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shane Zentner on Sep 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The crux is supposedly on the second pitch; however, the route felt easier than 5.9. Perhaps I missed the 5.9 section due to route finding issues. The only thing good about this route is the location. The rock is questionable and rotten throughout the upper sections of the line, thus I included the R rating. The protection is adequate lower on the route and sketchy on the upper sections due to poor rock quality. BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU PULL OR STAND ON. My rope was hacked due to rockfall. Wear a helmet on this one.

Pitch 1 (5.7). Climb low 5th class rock to where your comfort level stops and belay. Eventually, you will be climbing the crack systems on the left side of the poorly-protected, left-facing dihedral, not the dihedral proper!

Pitch 2 (5.9??). Follow heavily vegetated rock and discontinuous cracks, pull around a small, left-facing dihedral, and climb to a belay near a small tree. Look for a slung chockstone with faded red webbing and a rappel ring. Belay here or climb higher (you will be under a small roof with decaying rock).

Pitch 3 (5.8 R). From the belay, climb poor quality rock to an ancient bong under the roof, clip the bong and go left or right (right looked easier, left looked scary as hell). Follow the crack system to the top - be careful here as I witnessed a microwave oven- size boulder fly by me (the culprit for my rope damage). Thankfully I didn't lead this pitch.

Location

Locate the route in the middle of the wall. It starts near an awesome right arching seam and a series of offwidths and left of The Meat Cleaver and the big roof (the route will end in the distinguished slot left of the big roof).

Walk off to the left and locate a tree with rap anchors halfway down, or, scramble down a chimney to the left of the rappel tree.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches, perhaps nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot. There is rotten webbing with rappel slings at the top of the first pitch.

Photos

BJ Lively
  5.8+ R
BJ Lively  
  5.8+ R
Decent route for solo climb, but don't climb by yourself. Very good bouldering if you rap straight down from beginning of Forrest Route. You can catch the trail on the way down by veering right. Sep 10, 2016