Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bill Forrest, et al(?)|
|Page Views:||487 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Shane Zentner on Sep 29, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Pitch 1 (5.7). Climb low 5th class rock to where your comfort level stops and belay. Eventually, you will be climbing the crack systems on the left side of the poorly-protected, left-facing dihedral, not the dihedral proper!
Pitch 2 (5.9??). Follow heavily vegetated rock and discontinuous cracks, pull around a small, left-facing dihedral, and climb to a belay near a small tree. Look for a slung chockstone with faded red webbing and a rappel ring. Belay here or climb higher (you will be under a small roof with decaying rock).
Pitch 3 (5.8 R). From the belay, climb poor quality rock to an ancient bong under the roof, clip the bong and go left or right (right looked easier, left looked scary as hell). Follow the crack system to the top - be careful here as I witnessed a microwave oven- size boulder fly by me (the culprit for my rope damage). Thankfully I didn't lead this pitch.
Walk off to the left and locate a tree with rap anchors halfway down, or, scramble down a chimney to the left of the rappel tree.