Type: Trad
FA: Charlie Fowler & Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 2,928 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is located on Sunshine Wall to the right of Turkey Foot Crack. It is best to either establish a belay on the sloping ledge by the tree (hand-sized pieces in the crack) or on the ledge below (off width scramble involved).

Steep 5.10 crack and face climbing take you to a stance below the crux. Luckily, it has three fixed pins because it is helpful having both hands available to stay on the rock through the technical crux section. Note that one of these pins fell out recently and has been replaced with a bolt.

Tie off the small tree because the next bit of gear above the pins is small and not particularly confidence building. Be brave because 1/2 move higher gets you some good cams. Save some juice for the sting in the tail before the anchor. 80'.

Edit to add: The tree has been slowly prying off the flake that it rests in so slinging the tree for protection is not advised.

Protection

Standard rack with RPs, Aliens.

Photos

Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
One of my favorite pitches in all of the Cathedral Spires Area. The climb has really cool moves, good protection (RPs, nuts and small cams), and surprisingly large holds at the rests between the harder moves. A party can descend after the first pitch; anchors are in place as of '98. My friends Dave and Kevin believe the 3 pins at the crux are still in good shape. The gear to back up these pins is bomber.- Pat Jan 26, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
All presumably inspired by Yosemite's Astroman: Astro Dog (Black Canyon), Astro Monkey (Smith Rocks), Astro Lad (Moab), Astro Bunny (Colorado Nat Mon), Astro Elephant (Elephant's Perch, ID) and Astro Turkey! Jan 27, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Don't forget Astropoodle (Joshua Tree), AstroHulk (Incredible Hulk) and AstroYam (Yamnuska). Jan 27, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Good point! These don't come up if you do a search for "astro", 'cause they're one word I guess. Jan 28, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11b PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11b PG13
Don't forget the RPs and plenty of draws. Great route that climbs a lot better/different than what one would think. A 70m will barely get you safely to the ground with no down climbing. Dec 2, 2009
Roy Leggett
Lyons, CO
  5.11b PG13
Roy Leggett   Lyons, CO
  5.11b PG13
The crux knifeblade is no longer in place. As I led the route today, I gave the pin a quick test and it came half-way out. I deliberated for a while (read: cussed a bit), thought about bailing, but pushed it back in and finished the route feeling a bit uneasy about the whole process. On my way down, I gave it one mild tug and it came right out.
If I get a chance, I'll try to head back up and replace it soon. Be forewarned, the crux section is a bit runout now (still?).
I'll echo the lots of draws comment. I used all 13 that I had and wanted about 3 more. Jan 15, 2012
heppnerd  
 
Better than the Standard Route. Nov 1, 2012
Kent Pease
Littleton, CO
Kent Pease   Littleton, CO
You can rap this route with a single 60m rope, but be careful. The rope will easily reach the bushy ledge to the right where you start the actual climb, but the down-scramble from there is a little sketchy. Alternatively, go to the next ledge - with stretch our rope was a foot short, but it "worked". Dec 2, 2012
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Little freaky deaky in the crux. There's a great, blind #1 RP placement instead of a pin, though! Feb 25, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Pi Anchor webbing freshly refurbished 9/15. Cut away a ton of junk so littered you couldn't clip the bolts! Now a clean single anchor (but knotted/independent/redundant) that will need a second or replacement line in the future. Sep 7, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
PLEASE NOTE: the tree you can sling has pried the flake of granite that holds it in a good way off of the wall. I'd think twice about putting a sling on this. If you fall and take out the tree and that flake, you or your belayer could be in serious peril.
There is a so-so stopper just left, then an excellent 2-2.5" cam (red or green Camalot) just a few moves higher that would be so much safer.... Sep 7, 2015
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11b PG13
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11b PG13
Full value, I thought. Not a good warm-up. Nov 9, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11b PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11b PG13
I cut off the webbing at the anchor for the last time today and updated it with some chains. This climb is a different beast without the crux pin. All of the existing pins on the route are not completely necessary, since there is good gear abound, but the one pin that is missing is hard to safely backup. I don't know Charlie or Kyle, but it would be nice to place a bolt in this section in lieu of the #1 RP that doesn't inspire much confidence.

Edit to add: A bolt has been placed where the crux pin had pulled. Dec 15, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
There is now a bolt on this where the pin pulled. Gratitude to Monty or whoever put in the work on this good line. Jan 8, 2018
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks, Dave, for putting in the bolt. The route has been seeing more much-deserved traffic as a result. Jan 20, 2018