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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Charlie Fowler & Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 2,392 total, 12/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is located on Sunshine Wall to the right of Turkey Foot Crack. It is best to establish a belay on the sloping ledge by the tree (hand-sized pieces in the crack).

Steep 5.10 crack and face climbing take you to a stance below the crux. Luckily, it has three fixed pins because it is helpful having both hands available to stay on the rock through the technical crux section.

Tie off the small tree because the next bit of gear above the pins is small and not particularly confidence building. Be brave because 1/2 move higher gets you some good cams. Save some juice for the sting in the tail before the anchor. 80'.

Protection

Standard rack with RPs, Aliens.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11b PG13
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11b PG13
Full value, I thought. Not a good warm-up. Nov 9, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
PLEASE NOTE: the tree you can sling has pried the flake of granite that holds it in a good way off of the wall. I'd think twice about putting a sling on this. If you fall and take out the tree and that flake, you or your belayer could be in serious peril.
There is a so-so stopper just left, then an excellent 2-2.5" cam (red or green Camalot) just a few moves higher that would be so much safer.... Sep 7, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Pi Anchor webbing freshly refurbished 9/15. Cut away a ton of junk so littered you couldn't clip the bolts! Now a clean single anchor (but knotted/independent/redundant) that will need a second or replacement line in the future. Sep 7, 2015
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Little freaky deaky in the crux. There's a great, blind #1 RP placement instead of a pin, though! Feb 25, 2014
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
You can rap this route with a single 60m rope, but be careful. The rope will easily reach the bushy ledge to the right where you start the actual climb, but the down-scramble from there is a little sketchy. Alternatively, go to the next ledge - with stretch our rope was a foot short, but it "worked". Dec 2, 2012
heppnerd  
 
Better than the Standard Route. Nov 1, 2012
Roy Leggett
  5.11b PG13
Roy Leggett  
  5.11b PG13
The crux knifeblade is no longer in place. As I led the route today, I gave the pin a quick test and it came half-way out. I deliberated for a while (read: cussed a bit), thought about bailing, but pushed it back in and finished the route feeling a bit uneasy about the whole process. On my way down, I gave it one mild tug and it came right out.
If I get a chance, I'll try to head back up and replace it soon. Be forewarned, the crux section is a bit runout now (still?).
I'll echo the lots of draws comment. I used all 13 that I had and wanted about 3 more. Jan 15, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11b PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11b PG13
Don't forget the RPs and plenty of draws. Great route that climbs a lot better/different than what one would think. A 70m will barely get you safely to the ground with no down climbing. Dec 2, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Good point! These don't come up if you do a search for "astro", 'cause they're one word I guess. Jan 28, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Don't forget Astropoodle (Joshua Tree), AstroHulk (Incredible Hulk) and AstroYam (Yamnuska). Jan 27, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
All presumably inspired by Yosemite's Astroman: Astro Dog (Black Canyon), Astro Monkey (Smith Rocks), Astro Lad (Moab), Astro Bunny (Colorado Nat Mon), Astro Elephant (Elephant's Perch, ID) and Astro Turkey! Jan 27, 2009
Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
One of my favorite pitches in all of the Cathedral Spires Area. The climb has really cool moves, good protection (RPs, nuts and small cams), and surprisingly large holds at the rests between the harder moves. A party can descend after the first pitch; anchors are in place as of '98. My friends Dave and Kevin believe the 3 pins at the crux are still in good shape. The gear to back up these pins is bomber.- Pat Jan 26, 2009