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Routes in Sunshine Wall
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26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Mess with My Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Equinox T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Foxton Shuffle S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Knives Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Promised Road T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wear Cattle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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What Price Glory T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | P. Hubbel |
| Page Views: | 6,468 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | samson sp on Oct 11, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This route is located on Sunshine Wall. The approach is steep and rather strenuous; allow 45 minutes. From the trail, walk right (north) along the base of the cliff until you come to a chimney and gully in a shaded area. Gonzo's heads up the chimney to what appears to be a saddle between two formations of the rock.
P1: climb the chimney (5.5) being careful for loose rock. Easier scrambling after the chimney leads to a nice hand crack. The crux of the pitch is the final move up and over. It helps if you're tall, otherwise the move may seem a stretch at 5.9.
P2: take the obvious dihedral on the right (5.8).
P2 Variation (recommended): follow discontinuous cracks up the middle of the face (5.9+). This eats up small to medium cams. It is a great pitch! Belay when you find standing room and protection for a belay.
P3: continue straight above the variation. Or, if you climbed the dihedral second pitch, you should diagonal up left for 30 feet from the 2nd belay until you find the vertical crack headed up. This is a solid pitch (5.8); belay on next ledge with sitting room.
P4: Gonzo's lament? This is a 50 foot offwidth, off-balance 5.8 that I thought needed lots of big gear (4-6") for protection. It is tough; don't be fooled by the grade.
Variation (if you don't have the gear to protect the offwidth...) from the belay, traverse south around a loose-looking block and out of sight of your belayer. Per Ellen S: CAUTION: this traverse is non-trivial, loose and dangerous! I do not recommend relying on it. You will see the chain anchors for the Standard Route. You can climb the last crack pitch of this route (5.10) or traverse another 30 feet south and gain the 5.8 finish of Equinox - certainly a much easier 5.8 than the finish to Gonzo's.
Photos
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