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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Noel Childs, Chip Wilson, and Jerry Rock
Page Views: 4,830 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ben F on Oct 2, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This climb is on the Sunshine Wall. To reach it, park in the larger parking lot, and follow an obvious trail. When the trail is fairly level and straight, start looking for a trail that takes-off to the right. Usually, there is a small cairn marking it. Slog your way up this trail for several more minutes until you reach the cliff. Head right and look for an obvious, chalked flake system with 2 bolts near the bottom. This is the route that has your name on it.

P1 (10+/11-) - hop onto a block, and access the flake system. Be wary of the polished foot holds as you clip the first 2 bolts. The crux is somewhere after the 2nd bolt. A 'bomber-as-you-can-get', small BD stopper can be sunk into the flake just about a foot and a half above the last bolt. Stopper the rest of the way up the flake system, then you reach a flared slot with a crack inside it. Don't worry, the flake system is mostly on really solid and thick rock, so your pro will hold. Also be careful of the large detached block at the top of P1. Here you will want to leave the crack and climb the face to reach the newly bolted anchors.

P2 (10+) - leave the belay ledge and follow the crack/slot system. This pitch is awkward but short. Take your time and think about it. Pull a small overhang and step up and right to belay. There is now a bolted anchor. Previously it was protected with probably a #1 and #2 Camalot, in an upward-facing crack.

P3 (8 or 11-) - take the path of least resistance to a heavily chalked undercling flake. You get a nice friction move above questionable gear before you reach the undercling if you're short. Either head all the way to the left of the flake and upwards to a ledge (8), or about halfway across the flake head straight-up to the same ledge (11-). Do what you can to avoid rope drag. I was told that Trout's book calls the 11- way 'R' and Hubbel doesn't show where the 'R' is anywhere on his topo. There is supposedly a bolted anchor.

P4 (9+) - this pitch definitely has some 'R' on it as you head right and up to your first bolt (8 R). After that, the bolts/pins are reasonably spaced as you face climb on many slanted holds. It was Eldorado-esque on granite. This pitch leads upwards and a angle left to an obvious ledge. It is a good idea to climb with doubles on this pitch for the sake of the second. Don't clip the left rope until the 3rd bolt. You can also supplement the protection higher with small cams and stoppers. There is plenty of nice face climbing throughout the pitch. There is supposedly a bolted anchor.

P5 (10) - this pitch is mighty fine. Go straight off the ledge and follow the initially easy crack system. The crack then angles up and left at about 45 degrees. It then leads into a ramped dihedral at its end, where you'll want to have nearby protection. ollow the dihedral to its top, and sneak up and right onto a huge ledge. Before you head to the anchors on your right, walk straight back and place a directional high in a crack, being sure to avoid placing in the loose block lower. There is supposedly a bolted anchor.

Descent - 2 50m ropes would probably get you to the top of the 3rd pitch as 2 60m ropes sure as heck do. If taking 20 50m ropes, you'll probably have to go to the top of the 1st pitch and do one single rope rappel to the ground. The route also looked like you could do it with 1 rope if you stopped at every anchor. 2 8.8 60m ropes are the way to go.

In no way was any pitch on this route generic and even my least favorite pitch (P3) was good.

Protection

To protect this route, bring 1 or 2 tiny stoppers and a standard rack up to a #3.5 Camalot. You could do it with nothing larger than a #3, however. There are decent rap anchors at the end of every pitch, except the 2nd. However, if you had to bail from here, you could easily traverse to visible anchors to the right as you face the rock. The route can be descended with 2 60m double rope rappels.

Eds. There are now supposedly bolted anchors up the entire climb.
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11c PG13
Japhy Dhungana   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11c PG13
Not quite comparable to Wunsch's This route has short, bouldery cruxes, separated by long stretches of easier climbing. The 2nd/3rd pitch .11 variation is tough, especially if you're short, but protects VERY well, good enough to whip on, as I found out. Devious sequence to onsight, but it's all there. Feb 13, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
The hard part of the 5.11 path for P2/P3 (second pitch, but off of the 3rd anchor) isn't really R-rated. It is hard, but you have safe gear when the climbing is tough. Sep 7, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This route is sooo good. Every pitch is very unique and fun. 5 out of 4 stars for sure!

A tip if your partner is a little squimish about following the opening traverse moves on p4.
Once you finish leading the pitch: Pull up all the rope and put your partner on belay like normal. Untie and lower down your end of the rope. Your partner can then tie in on a bite with a locker (that way they can ditch that rope after the traverse) and be on top rope for the first traverse, just like climbin' on doubles. No giant pendulum, and one happy partner :) Jan 30, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Yes, if you follow the bolts straight up from the belay on the huge flake, it is very difficult! Aaron and I were wondering where the 5.9 slab had gone! Feb 1, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.11- PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.11- PG13
If you go up and left on pitch 4 you are getting on Sunkist, a 4 pitch 5.12. Make sure to traverse right if you want to stick with the Standard Route. Feb 1, 2010
Definitely easy to rap with a single 60m, huge thanks to Kevin for the shiny new hardware. Also, the "11-" var. on P3 felt hard, but is very safe.
-Scott Nov 18, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.11- R
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.11- R
I just wanted to add that it was probably Jim Michaels who first led pitch one, about 1972 before the two bolts were added. Noel, Chip, and Jerry's continuation is one of Colorado's top climbs.

Kevin's bolt repairs are really impressive and make the Platte worth climbing in again. If anyone needs help hauling up loads for repairs etc., then message me through the Mountain Proj. I'll be the happily be the grunt and have some hardware, too. Oct 12, 2007
Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
The Standard Route was put up by Noel Childs,Chip Wilson, and Jerry Rock. Oct 3, 2007
Looks like Kevin got that Bosch. Check out:
safeclimbing.org/areas/colo…
Kevin and company replaced 5 anchor bolts and 2 pro bolts in '05. Feb 28, 2007
SirVato
Boulder
  5.10d PG13
SirVato   Boulder
  5.10d PG13
This was an amazing route. I had the pleasure of leading the whole thing. We got it done in 3 pitches. Linking the first two pitches makes for a Looooong (150ft) multi-crux pitch, wouldn't recommend it any other way!! I wanted to go for 2 pitches but, putting #3 in the mix would've been tough, due to rope drag. Also, the last two pitches link just fine and that makes for a nice, heady, 200ft rope stretching pitch!! Dec 18, 2006
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.10d
Each belay is equipped with new rap anchors. The descent is now possible in 5 single rope rappels. Don't be fooled by the piton and bolt above the belay on pitch 4. I believe the piton was part of the old belay and the bolt leads to runout hardness. This climb has varied and interesting climbing much like it's neighbor Equinox. One of the best in the area. Nov 22, 2004