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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1987
Page Views: 1,357 total, 13/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Jan 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Begin by climbing the crack for approximately 35 feet. The crack curves to the left and this section is about 5.8. Look up onto the slab above and locate the 2 bolts leading across the slab. Step right onto slabby face holds and follow the line past the aformentioned bolts. After climbing through a slabby crux, you will gain a rail leading right and into a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Climb up this dihedral until you can face climb right and up to gain the anchor.

Location

This is the first crack to the left of the Standard Route.

Protection

Single set to #2 Camalot, including RPs.

Photos

Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
It pulls the roof on the right, same as Standard Route. Jan 19, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
FA info added...thanks Kirk.

Kevin...your "second pitch" looks killer. I'll have to go back and give it a whirl. Does it end at the roof?
One of these days you and I should rope up.

josh Jan 18, 2009
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
We named it Wear Cattle. Funny how people will make up their own names for established routes, then publish them. Jan 18, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
I have seen it named both Past Tense and Wear Cattle. You can continue up the left angling crack past a single bolt for a nice 5.9 pitch. I think it is a stretch calling Wear Cattle a 9+ though feels more like 5.10 to me...and it might warrant a R rating....

The second pitch is a route I put up called Coppertone, named for the lichen encountered traversing to the top of P2 of the Standard route. Lower end 5.12 moves, and can be linked with the first pitch for a nice outing. Jan 17, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
My old book lists this climb on the topo as "Past Tense", 10a, but the name and first ascent is listed correct in the back. ?? Jan 17, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
There appears to be a 2nd pitch....obvious because of the bolts leading up from the anchor. Anyone know more?

All bolts are bomber on this route, including the rap equipped anchor. Jan 16, 2009