Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1987
Page Views: 1,437 total · 12/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Jan 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Begin by climbing the crack for approximately 35 feet. The crack curves to the left and this section is about 5.8. Look up onto the slab above and locate the 2 bolts leading across the slab. Step right onto slabby face holds and follow the line past the aformentioned bolts. After climbing through a slabby crux, you will gain a rail leading right and into a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Climb up this dihedral until you can face climb right and up to gain the anchor.

Location

This is the first crack to the left of the Standard Route.

Protection

Single set to #2 Camalot, including RPs.

Photos

J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.9+
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.9+
There appears to be a 2nd pitch....obvious because of the bolts leading up from the anchor. Anyone know more?

All bolts are bomber on this route, including the rap equipped anchor. Jan 16, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
My old book lists this climb on the topo as "Past Tense", 10a, but the name and first ascent is listed correct in the back. ?? Jan 17, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
I have seen it named both Past Tense and Wear Cattle. You can continue up the left angling crack past a single bolt for a nice 5.9 pitch. I think it is a stretch calling Wear Cattle a 9+ though feels more like 5.10 to me...and it might warrant a R rating....

The second pitch is a route I put up called Coppertone, named for the lichen encountered traversing to the top of P2 of the Standard route. Lower end 5.12 moves, and can be linked with the first pitch for a nice outing. Jan 17, 2009
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
We named it Wear Cattle. Funny how people will make up their own names for established routes, then publish them. Jan 18, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.9+
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.9+
FA info added...thanks Kirk.

Kevin...your "second pitch" looks killer. I'll have to go back and give it a whirl. Does it end at the roof?
One of these days you and I should rope up.

josh Jan 18, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10- PG13
It pulls the roof on the right, same as Standard Route. Jan 19, 2009