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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 696 total · 4/month
Shared By: tobias Nitschke on Dec 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

We traversed onto this route from Squatter's Rights, so I have no info about the first two pitches. The third pitch was our variation, the first half of which was 5.5-5.6. Then it steepens a bit, and leads up to the right of a small overhang. There's an old bolt there. We set up a hanging belay: the crack above takes a #3.5 cam and there's also a small crack on the left for protection.

4th pitch, variation: follow the obvious crack to the right. There are decent underclings for holds and pro as you smear out onto the slab. It's exposed and hard to see what to place, though, as you're above it. (I yelled at my partner to tell me if I had the right size, but then relaxed a bit and figured it out.) Stretch wide with your right foot to gain a decent little foothold. Continue traversing right. This leads you into the "Stripteaser" crack system. The crack you're on peters out before this, and you have to carefully stretch and traverse out and down. (This is a cool section, but you may be relieved when you're in Stripteaser.)

From here, follow the crack on up and out (5.10b). Or, if you're enjoying the traverse, continue on sparse face holds to the right around the rounded corner to the next crack--"Man on Fire". Again, it's a bit reachy a traverse but brings a smile to your face when you've made it. Do your best to protect it for you partner. I stuck a #4 high in Stripteaser before continuing on towards Man on Fire. However, this also caused incredible rope drag, and I had to pull my way hard around that corner!

5th pitch: (Now on Man of Fire) Fire up the short pitch. There's a huge detached flake at the top that offers pro. You can then boulder up its arete to the ridge (fun). Easy scrambling will take you higher along the ridge if you like, but there are rappel slings just on the other side of where you top out. There's a second rappel further down the gully, so don't take off your harness after the first. Cheers!

Protection

Pro to 4 inches. Medium and small cams needed for the crux.

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