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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 663 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Lucas on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fred the crack starts out as a ugly tour of vegetation in a gully. When it is reasonable to head right, go to the flat ledge and climb the hand to fist crack straight up. When your feet are at the chockstone, go left up the thin crack because you are out of big gear.

This middle of Fred was kind of fun.

The descent is entertaining. We used some old slings on a ledge to rappel to the base on the right of the start.

Location

This climb is on the Sunshine Wall. To reach it, park in the larger parking lot and follow an obvious trail. When the trail is fairly level and straight, start looking for a trail that takes-off to the left. Scramble off to the left over some logs. Find a dirty looking gully with lots of plant life. To the left is a scary runout 5.11 with a few bolts.

Protection

This climb takes several large cams BD #3 to #5. You will also want some smaller gear if you head off left after the wide section. Make sure and sling the chockstone in the middle.

Photos

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Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
  5.10b
The crux of this is wide (and steep)! Maybe fist jam for those with large hands, but I thought it was basically off-width. This climb is not 5.9. Sep 17, 2014