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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: K. Stricker and D. Russell (2/27/09) FFA - K.Stricker and J. Langston (1/1/10)
Page Views: 1,202 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kevin Stricker on Jan 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb the first pitch of Rip Van Winkle and set up a belay right below a horizontal crack splitting the wall with medium cams and stoppers. Traverse right along the break, then straight up the thin seam. Surmounting the roofs is the crux, but the crack above is continuously difficult until it meets back up with RVW. Step back right and hand or foot traverse the diagonal crack back right with fun moves to the top.

Location

This route is on the upper SE face of Sunshine Wall, right of the upper pitch of Rip Van Winkle. Climb to the saddle between SS wall and face via many alternatives or hike around the back side. Climb up the first pitch of RVW and belay on the lower ledge below an obvious horizontal crack splitting the wall.

Protection

Riders on the Storm has two fixed nuts and two pins through the crux roofs. The rest of the pitch takes two sets of RP's and double cams to 1"(.5 Camalot). Larger cams(up to #3) are helpful for the first pitch and for the belays.

Photos

Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
Looks awesome- well done! Jan 8, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
Thanks for the comments, guys, it was great to be up there with you.

This route is unique for the Spires due to the multitude of holds on the face, it is really more of a face climb with natural protection. It is easy to aid through the crux on fixed gear. During the winter months it is best to get on the climb in the morning, as by mid day the sun starts shining in your eyes and it is in the shade in the afternoon. Jan 4, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Great work, fellas! Jan 2, 2010
Indeed, excellent work. We had a cool vantage point watching the presend whip and the true send from Block Tower Jan 1, 2010
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
Nice job, Kevin. It was good to see you guys up there. Jan 1, 2010