Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lisa and Dave Montgomery, 11/18
Page Views: 420 total · 39/month
Shared By: Monty on Nov 29, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pull out your dancing shoes, because this route is bound to test your fancy footwork! The Foxton Shuffle (aka Mr. Green Jingus) was started by Olaf Mitchell and Chip Wilson in the late '80s, but the project was abandoned after they placed the first few bolts.

The route is now complete sporting two very high quality pitches. It is possible to link both pitches, but you'll need calves the size of Popeye's forearms and a lot of draws.

Pitch 1 (12+ , 36m, 16 bolts + (1x) #3 Camalot): scamper up to the first bolt, and dispatch a cruxy start getting to the pod. Dump a #3 Camalot in the pod (consider unclipping this after clipping the next bolt), then embark up the wild face for what feels like an eternity. This is a long pitch that is incredibly thought provoking and will hold your attention until you reach the comfortable belay ledge. Lowering from this pitch will use ALL of a 70m rope. KNOT YOUR ENDS!

Pitch 2 (11 , 20m, 4 bolts + nuts, small cams): follow a thin crack left of the belay to two bolts on a prow. Climb past these bolts avoiding a flake out left that we were unable to clean then gain a short, thin finger crack  Climb the crack until it dies then climb past two more bolts to the anchor. Lower back down to the comfort of the previous belay.

Location

Hike up to the base of Sunshine Wall, and continue right as if you are walking to the Poe Buttress. As that "trail" begins to leave Sunshine Wall, look up, and you'll see the route. There is a convenient belay perch 25 feet down and right of the first bolt. This route is located immediately left of New Way.

Protection

A 70m rope is mandatory! See the pitch descriptions for a rack.

Photos

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