Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (11)
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,072 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Nov 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Just left of the Standard Route is a beautiful,clean almost vertical slab. Follow the line of bolts up the smooth slab to a small roof. Make a tricky move past the roof and reach the belay. The crux is getting to the fouth bolt. Great route with good steep and dicey slab climbing. Almost three stars.

Protection

Nine bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Per Lisa Montgomery: two bolts were added to make this a more reasonable lead.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
5.12
michalm   Boulder, CO
5.12
Excellent movement on this route with improbable sequences. Felt 12b ish for the OS. Mostly good rock quality that should improve with traffic. Bolts don't follow the natural line, and clipping some is quite cruxy. For how many bolts there are, there were some pretty hard moves with uncertain fall potential. Finally, I would encourage whoever left tickmarks all over the lower crux but not necessarily on useful holds to clean up the mess. Jan 6, 2018
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is a phenomenal slab pitch! Don't over complicate the upper roof or face the heartbreaker that I did. Dec 31, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Two bolts were added to make this a more reasonable lead. Easy to set a toprope/hang draws after doing Wear Cattle. Nov 21, 2015
dameeser
denver
 
dameeser   denver
 
We now have bolts...again? This thing has been messed with. 3.5 star slab route! It's a little spicy (sorry?) and better with the draws hung. Feb 26, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Has anyone else here ever done the route "Fire Arms And Grace" ??? If so, please contact me, I have some questions. Jan 30, 2004