Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Maurice Reed & Bruce Sposi, 1982|
|Page Views:||615 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||a bloc on Jan 8, 2018|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
P1. 5.7, 30'. A #4 or 5 in the back of the alcove can keep the belayer stable and protect the cruxy first move. From the belay alcove, make an exposed step left over a thorn bush to gain a short, fun hand crack. Swim to a nice belay stance under the roof, and build an anchor with fist cams and large nuts.
P2. 5.11c, 20'. This is a very distorting but awesome, 4 star, roped boulder problem. This is where you realize the crack is actually past horizontal and goes downwards. Thankfully a slab helps you negotiate the first half of thin fingers. As the slab below you becomes of less use, the crack opens up for some marginal hands, slam some cams 'n' jams in, and get rowdy! Pull the awkward angled lip on perfect hand jams with desperate feet.
Build a horrid, hanging belay with some leftover hand pieces ASAP so the rope and cams don't get eaten by the crack, alternately place a 1-2" hex at the lip below the belay to help keep the crack from eating your rope/cams. You are now comically close to your belayer. Tenderly whisper down: 'off belay'.
P3. 5.8, 150'. Time to get off the dang formation via the grungy last pitch of Opus. Shift the belay left off the thigh killing belay to a good stance with large hand pieces in an orange dihedral. Sail away past the fun, steep dihedral to a chossy, hollow sounding slab with little pro. Head up and right for what seems forever till you can see trees. Downclimb across a small gap, and cord a boulder to belay.
Scramble off right, then surf down the gully to get back to the packs. Or do Moot Point, Traffic Jam, or Rip Van Winkle while you're up there!
This is a right-facing dihedral with an east aspect. It gets early morning sun only.