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Routes in Sunshine Wall
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26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Mess with My Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Equinox T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Foxton Shuffle S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Knives Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Promised Road T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spotlight Kid T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wear Cattle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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What Price Glory T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.42096, -105.25683 |
| FA: | Maurice Reed & Bruce Sposi, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,060 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Adam bloc on Jan 8, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025
Details
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Uncle Sam's Jam is a mind-boggling roof hand crack. Supposedly it's the Separate Reality simulator of the SPlatte. The only bummer on this proud line is how much easy/chossy terrain is required to experience the thrilling, short roof section, oh, and aiding back up the rope if anyone on the party ever falls at the crux. P1 and 2 can be linked if you fancy yourself a whiz at preventing rope drag.
P1. 5.7, 30'. A #4 or 5 in the back of the alcove can keep the belayer stable and protect the cruxy first move. From the belay alcove, make an exposed step left over a thorn bush to gain a short, fun hand crack. Swim to a nice belay stance under the roof, and build an anchor with fist cams and large nuts.
P2. 5.11c, 20'. This is a very distorting but awesome, 4 star, roped boulder problem. This is where you realize the crack is actually past horizontal and goes downwards. Thankfully a slab helps you negotiate the first half of thin fingers. As the slab below you becomes of less use, the crack opens up for some marginal hands, slam some cams 'n' jams in, and get rowdy! Pull the awkward angled lip on perfect hand jams with desperate feet.
Build a horrid, hanging belay with some leftover hand pieces ASAP so the rope and cams don't get eaten by the crack. You are now comically close to your belayer. Tenderly whisper down: 'off belay'.
Per Ryan: traverse hard left and down to the Foxtown Shuffle anchors to rap.
Or continue with the subpar finish to Opus to walk off.
P3 (Opus) 5.8, 150'. Time to get off the dang formation via the grungy last pitch of Opus. Shift the belay left off the thigh killing belay to a good stance with large hand pieces in an orange dihedral. Sail away past the fun, steep dihedral to a chossy, hollow sounding slab with little pro. Head up and right for what seems forever till you can see trees. Downclimb across a small gap, and cord a boulder to belay.
Scramble off right, then surf down the gully to get back to the packs. Or do Moot Point, Traffic Jam, or Rip Van Winkle while you're up there!
Location
Walk 100 yards right and uphill from Astro Turkey (towards Poe), and turn around left to see a striking roof crack. Leave your packs on the flat ground, rack up, and do some exposed chossy scrambling to a very small belay alcove. If you really hate yourself, you can do a 5.7 offwidth through some thorn bushes to get the same belay spot.
This is a right-facing dihedral with an east aspect. It gets early morning sun only.
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