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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Reveley
Page Views: 1,434 total · 15/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Jan 31, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A really fun two-pitch climb that initially runs parallel to the the one-pitch route Deception Past, Fallen Angels starts in a shallow, licheny, left-facing, left-leaning corner about 10 feet left of two pine trees that are very close to the wall. Its second pitch ascends an obvious, right-facing corner through the roof above.

P1. Lieback the corner for a couple moves before moving to the face and a thin crack above. From here, climb toward a diminutive white pine beneath a roof, where some pro can be had. Sack up and make your way into the crux seam, clipping two bolts along the way to lower-angle ground. Belay off some webbing and trad gear at a decent stance beneath a bulge, 5.10b, ~ 80'.

P2. Climb through the bulge, and a second one, to gain a very shallow, right-facing corner (RPs, offsets helpful) and climb the face around the crack until you're in the base of the big corner. Stem, fingerlock, and lieback your way up the awesome corner until the roof forces you to escape left to a ledge with bolts, 5.10a/b, ~ 90'.

Rappel from these anchors to a second set at the top of Deception Past, from which a second rappel can be made to the ground.

Location

Fallen Angels ascends a shallow, left-facing, left-leaning corner about ten feet left of two pines that are immediately in front of a a cleaner, left-facing corner. It appears a bit lichen-y, but the climb leaves the dihedral quickly. The first crux of the route is identified by locating two bolts left of a seam about 40 feet up the wall. The second pitch climbs the large, right-facing corner at the left margin of the large roof system in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Bust out the small stuff for this route. P1 goes on microcams - TCUs/C3s from 00 up - and RPs, and the first part of P2 takes small cams and offset micronuts. The finishing corner protects well with nuts - there are a placements for a #2 and #3 Camalot on P2, but one could easily rack only micro cams and nuts for this climb.

Photos

lenore sparks
Dolores, Colorado
 
lenore sparks   Dolores, Colorado
 
This is a great route to do as one mega pitch. I regret not having a knife to remove the tat nest, b/c it is extremely molded and rat-eaten. A single rack is sufficient, but bring a full set of nuts, especially small stuff/RPs and LOTS of draws and shoulder-length slings. Save a 0.75 and a 0.5 cam for the dihedral top part. An 80 meter will probably not get you down from the top anchor, so a 60 meter and two raps will suffice. Oct 31, 2017
Kevin P
Loveland
  5.10b
Kevin P   Loveland
  5.10b
After the sling nest, I used a #0.75, #1, #2 Camalot and a whole mess of stoppers. Feb 17, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
You definitely need small stuff on the first pitch. I wish I had doubles in small cams. The belay for the first pitch, if you do it in two pitches, is not on a very good ledge, but there is a sling anchor and a few cam placements. Feb 16, 2014
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10b
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10b
That's because those bolts are bomber 12mm Petzl Longlifes, not 1/4 inchers. Feb 1, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10b
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10b
That nest is mostly tat. Also the bolts that can be reached easily are above a great ledge instead of slippery dihedral. Rappel back down to this anchor with a single rope, then to the ground.

I'm going to have to look at the Ken Trout book, but I recall him calling the lieback finger crack between the two trees a dozen feet to the right of the start of Fallen Angels the start of Equinox... Either way a good route. And those not 1/4 in. bolts (as stated in guide) (probably thanks to Kevin!) are looking pretty good and have held a fall! Feb 1, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10b
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10b
You have some of the facts off in your description. Fallen Angels is a two pitch route and does have a first pitch anchor at a nest of webbing below a roof that is easily backed up. Most people link it with the second pitch which continues through the large, right-facing corner to a roof and use the bolt anchors there to belay. The crack system to the right is actually Deceptions Past, the real start to Equinox starts about 100 feet to the left around the corner up the slabby ramp. Most start Equinox with Fallen Angels or Deceptions Past as they are much more enjoyable climbing. FA by Chris Reveley. Feb 1, 2010