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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Larry Marquardt
Page Views: 11,919 total, 58/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route is located on the Sunshine Wall's South Face. This wall is the formation to the left of Cynical Pinnacle when looking from the road. This route is about halfway in the middle of the wide wall. There are three cracks that lead into one, easiest from right to left. If you do the middle, or left route, some RPs will be nice to have. A little bit after the cracks converge, a fist size crack goes up another pitch, or the first two can be combined. A 5.8 goes the rest of the way, or rap from here.

Protection

A couple extra 3, or 3.5 cams for the fist crack.

Per Lisa Montgomery: a 2-bolt anchor (stainless 1/2" by 4" 5-piece & stainless hangers) with rap rings was installed at the top of pitch 2.
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Do not underestimate this climb. I think most people just do the middle "toe", which is supposedly 5.9. Just before it merges with the right crack, it gets steep and thin. A few sequency and tricky moves are needed before getting a hand jam in the right crack at the merge. Pro is not so great in this section either. It can be tempting to move or stem over to the wide right crack, but that just throws you off balance; not recommended. I would call it 5.10a. Oct 1, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
A 2-bolt anchor with rap rings was installed at the top of pitch 2. Bolts are stainless 1/2" by 4" 5-piece. Stainless hangers. Nov 20, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Excellent route to a questionable rap anchor. I also vote to put a nice camo bolt anchor atop this route to save a life or two at some point in the future, if the FAs allow. Oct 5, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
P1 anchor at 120' could probably use some fresh cord/webbing as of 9/2015. We cut away 3 strands that were reduced to fuzz or torn/chewwed over 1/2 way through, then checked the rest, which is aging. Didn't have a piece long enough to go around the rock with us, however. Sep 7, 2015
Thanks Kevin. I've sent a PM regarding the bolts. Aug 28, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
Wow Larry, that's impressive. The short little thin crack above the amazing "bivy" ledge must have been exciting, I guess it is called the third pitch. Aug 28, 2009
This was first ascent was soloed by me, as Jim Michael and Chris Reveley can attest. Date uncertain. Aug 28, 2009
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Sling anchor atop pitch 2 was pretty solid and in good shape as of Feb 09. It is up and right after the hand crack ends. Feb 8, 2009
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I lead the far right crack with some rather poor shoes for edging. This compelled me to only use feet in the crack as it began to arch to the left, which was rather strenuous as it weights the hands more. So leave the crummy shoes at home and enjoy yourself. Aug 3, 2008
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
In relation to starting this thing-
I just did the lefthand start the other day and found the finger crack fun, but it felt super contrived up top, where you were stemming over to this awesome hand crack whilst scumming a couple of digits into an extremely painful finger crack (waaaah). The opening moves are really cool passing the little bush, but don't ignore the hand crack, cause it feels real good.
Also, for the upper part, 3x #3 Camalots, one new #4/old #3.5 and a couple of #2s worked great for me. Tape is nice. Nov 4, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
From the anchor Ben and I installed, you can rap 175' to the ground with two 60m ropes. You could also do two raps with one 60m rope, using the bolt anchor atop the first pitch for the second rap.

A bolted rap anchor atop the second pitch would be a welcome addition, if the first ascent party agrees. Feb 16, 2006
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
 
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
 
On Monday, Feb. 13 I installed a temporary, but good anchor at the top of p2. I did not see the new anchor, which was purported to be 20 ft. higher than the old one (maybe didn't look in the right place). Anyway, my anchor is at about the same height as the old one, but to the right. It is slung around good, attached rock. There was another anchor a little lower and further to the right of my anchor. We removed it as it was a little more than sketchy. Feel free to bring one more 8-10 ft piece of webbing or cord to supplement the other 2. Feb 16, 2006
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
Mr. Estes Drunk, when was the last time you climbed Turkey Foot Crack? If you have climbed it and rappelled off the second pitch then you used up one of your 9 lives unknowingly. I rappelled off that block several times, but the first time I continued to the top and had to step on the block I knew it could end up being someones last rappel. I hate to pull off blocks and scar the rock, but as I climb in the Spires quite often I feel an obligation to try to keep the place relatively safe. I have replaced several hundred coffin nails in the Platte, but I have only added 2 anchors to existing climbs, both of which were where the existing sling anchor was using a deteriorating block . The route currently has a bolted anchor after the first pitch, why not after the second as well? It seems to me that a camo ring anchor is a lot lower impact than a nest of slings around some stoppers. If anyone has information on how to reach the FA party ( Larry Marquardt and Chris Reveley) I would love to get their opinion on the matter. Thanks. Nov 22, 2005
I have to agree with Andy. Kevin replaced all the bolts on Childhood's End (nearly sixty) single-handedly, I believe. Seems like he's been around plenty long enough to size up what needs to be fixed. Kevin: your efforts are appreciated. AED: fark off. Nov 22, 2005
Hi Kevin, I remember thinking those blocks were pretty dubious last time I rapped off them. Maybe they were sufficient for the time being - but i think their days were numbered. Your solution sounds good.

In reply to "Another Estes Park Drunk" - maybe if you sobered up sometime you would know that Kevin has replaced virtually every crappy bolt in the Cathedral Spires over the last few years, and deserves a huge round of applause (and an apology from you). Nov 22, 2005
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
Two weeks ago when doing this climb I found that the stopper anchor at the end of the second pitch was gone, leaving only a slung block tat nest. With some investigation we found that 4 LARGE blocks were just perched there, with the anchors literally sitting on a block with only a small block holding them down. The scary thing is that people have been rapping from here for years! We trundeled the blocks but did not replace the anchor as we discovered an AMAZING belay ( comfy bivy for 1) 20 feet higher than the old anchor and 60m from the ground. A second bolted anchor at this stance would be a vast improvement over the old anchor situation, but we were hoping to contact the FA party before doing anything. It is still possible to continue to the top and walk off the back side if you are in the mood for a grovelfest. Nov 21, 2005
I saw a guy on this today and he had to downclimb the last pitch because the anchors are gone. There are a lot of rockfall scars on the face below the climb. Nov 20, 2005