Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mark Sonnenfeld and friends 1985, first lead, Bill Myers, 10/85
Page Views: 2,804 total · 20/month
Shared By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is just right of the first pitch of the Standard Route. In fact, it shares the first pitch ledge with that route. This is a hard and scary lead. It use to have a single, fixed pin below the first section of 12 down low on the climb. You need to be fit to lead this. It makes a good TR.

Location

This is between the Standard Route and Gonzo's Lament.

Protection

Wires and larger to an inch or two. Hard to protect.

Photos

Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
Bill Myers was the one that lead it first. Feb 17, 2008
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12b
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12b
Stellar pitch, it's all just barely there. Definitely a tough lead, but the gear is there, and it's good.
-Scott Nov 18, 2009
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
Bill Myers, 10/12/85.

Mike Bearzi climbed this line with ice tools. Miss you, man. Sep 4, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12b/c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12b/c
Such an amazing line! Feb 19, 2011
Hey Monty, You climbed the shit outta that shit today :) Congrats. Feb 19, 2011
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
  5.12c
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
  5.12c
Nice job, Dave. It's one of the best. Feb 20, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.12c
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.12c
Solid lead, Monty. Congrats. Feb 20, 2011
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
Right on, Monty! Wish I could have stuck around to watch it go down. Good to finally meet you yesterday. Did you find the trail? Feb 20, 2011
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
This route takes really good gear. Believe me, I tested it. Placing it can be challenging. This would be a really impressive onsight with no knowledge of the gear or the route. Jan 20, 2018