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Routes in Sunshine Wall
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26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Mess with My Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Equinox T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Foxton Shuffle S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Knives Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Promised Road T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spotlight Kid T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wear Cattle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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What Price Glory T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.42096, -105.25683 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,039 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | toby nitchka on Dec 6, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
The best way to find the route is walking north, northeast along the base of the cliff. Halfway along there are two short cracks to choose from-- the one on the right is a diagonal off-width that heads up right for twenty-five feet before disappearing from sight. You'll need 4"-6" cams to protect it.... We chose the crack on the left, a supposed 5.8. It's short but not exactly a walk-up. After 30 feet you gain easy ground with vegetation that leads to a brief section of 5.7 which brings you a flat, open area. This area may also be reached by walking up the gully that begins about 40 feet to the left of the base of the first pitch.
2nd pitch: located to the right of a blankish face there are three crack systems, from left to right a 10a, a 7 (with a 5.8+ move if you ask me), and an 8 (the widest of the three). We climbed the 5.7. Nice pitch. It takes you into a wide chimney. There are red and blue slings there. Angle out left following a crack along a slab, or climb straight on (harder). We did the former, and belayed from the flat ledge there with good views (Pikes Peaks to the southeast, the mountains south of Evans to the west).
3rd pitch: we didn't climb it. We traversed through split rocks to the north to another climb. (See "Interceptor".) If you stay with Squatter's, there's a 5.9+ variation on the left, according to Hubbel's book--the first moves of which seemed like hard 5.10 at the very least--and a 5.8 off-width on the right (pro to 5 inches). Just remember, 5.8 around here ain't necessarily a cinch....
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