Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: [Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975]
Page Views: 2,937 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This fine handcrack is located on the northeast side of the Sunshine Wall. The best approach is to climb the first two pitches of Gonzo's Lament to reach the saddle between the Sunshine Wall and the Sunshine Face (Turkey Foot Tower). These pitches are pretty unremarkable, but the alternative is to scratch up the gully between the Sunshine Face and the Poe Buttress. Another possible approach is to climb the Turkey Foot Crack and continue to the saddle. This involves a poorly protected 5.10 corner and some 4th class around left. The crack is distinguished by a significant jog (crux) to the right towards its top. The beginning is somewhat wide, but the protection was pretty diverse, so the wide stuff is unnecessary. On the topos this route is two pitches, and there is a nice ledge to stop and belay. Better, though, is to link this into one long quality pitch with around 30' leftover on a 60m cord.

The rappel is close by, and it is possible to reach a safe ledge with one 60m.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles in hand size.
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
This route was first done by Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975. It was named for the catnap taken on the summit. This route, while beautiful and fun, has some scary blocks on it. The guidebook has it listed as 2 pitches, but can be easily done in one. At the horizontal break where a belay is listed is a 8 foot tall perched block that rocks when grabbed at the top (very large). There is another loose flake you have to climb around mid route. If these blocks were cleaned up the route would be a lot more enjoyable!
You can descend with one 60m rope off the back side, but expect to do some downclimbing (rocks and trees) which is sketchy when snowcovered. Feb 9, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Thanks Kevin! Pretty stupid of me to forget that loose block in my description. I did, however, try to dislodge it while seconding my rope solo. It seemed a little less treacherous than when you are surprised by it on lead. Feb 25, 2003
More kudos to Kevin.
safeclimbing.org/areas/colo…
Kevin and company replaced 2 anchor bolts in '05. Feb 28, 2007
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
You can easily climb west over the top of the Gonzo's Lament chimney and reach the raps on the Standard Route. This is a good idea if it is snowy to the north and the route is not busy. If you plan to rap into the gully to the north, bring some webbing for the bolts which have no chains or rings. Feb 28, 2011
Cindy Mitchell
  5.10a
Cindy Mitchell  
  5.10a
Ho baby, this is a good route. Thin hands at the crux for my partners but sinker jams for me. Good footholds when you need them or jam those tootsies in the crack. Plenty of good rests to avoid the pump.

The small loose block under the big loose block is scary, scary, scary. It pulled out partway and I shoved it back in. I don't know if it will pull out all the way to be trundled and didn't want to find out, because I didn't want to kill my partner below me. You owe me, Roth :) Feb 28, 2011
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
 
Linking this up with Turkey Foot Crack makes for a very enjoyable outing. Rather than going up the poorly protected dihedral at the top of Turkey Foot Crack, go further right and then find your way up. Jul 13, 2014
erik rieger
Sheridan, WY
 
erik rieger   Sheridan, WY
 
Can be reached via Turkey Foot by a half-fun pitch (half of it's great, the other half has thorn bushes). Great pitch up a super clean crack aside from the very large, teetering block (both blocks are loose). Dec 8, 2014