All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Sunshine Wall

Rip Van Winkle

Name: Rip Van Winkle
Rating: 3.2

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Sunshine Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Arch Nemesis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Don't Mess with My Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Equinox T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Foxton Shuffle S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Knives Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Promised Road T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Spotlight Kid T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Wear Cattle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	What Price Glory T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 170 ft (52 m)
GPS:	39.42096, -105.25683
FA:	[Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975]
Page Views:	5,037 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Brian Milhaupt on Jan 28, 2003
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025 Details

Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.

Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.

2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures

The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…

Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.

Description

This fine handcrack is located on the northeast side of the Sunshine Wall. The best approach is to climb the first two pitches of Gonzo's Lament to reach the saddle between the Sunshine Wall and the Sunshine Face (Turkey Foot Tower). These pitches are pretty unremarkable, but the alternative is to scratch up the gully between the Sunshine Face and the Poe Buttress. Another possible approach is to climb the Turkey Foot Crack and continue to the saddle. This involves a poorly protected 5.10 corner and some 4th class around left. The crack is distinguished by a significant jog (crux) to the right towards its top. The beginning is somewhat wide, but the protection was pretty diverse, so the wide stuff is unnecessary. On the topos this route is two pitches, and there is a nice ledge to stop and belay. Better, though, is to link this into one long quality pitch with around 30' leftover on a 60m cord.

The rappel is close by, and it is possible to reach a safe ledge with one 60m.