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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: [Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975]
Page Views: 2,750 total, 15/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This fine handcrack is located on the northeast side of the Sunshine Wall. The best approach is to climb the first two pitches of Gonzo's Lament to reach the saddle between the Sunshine Wall and the Sunshine Face (Turkey Foot Tower). These pitches are pretty unremarkable, but the alternative is to scratch up the gully between the Sunshine Face and the Poe Buttress. Another possible approach is to climb the Turkey Foot Crack and continue to the saddle. This involves a poorly protected 5.10 corner and some 4th class around left. The crack is distinguished by a significant jog (crux) to the right towards its top. The beginning is somewhat wide, but the protection was pretty diverse, so the wide stuff is unnecessary. On the topos this route is two pitches, and there is a nice ledge to stop and belay. Better, though, is to link this into one long quality pitch with around 30' leftover on a 60m cord.

The rappel is close by, and it is possible to reach a safe ledge with one 60m.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles in hand size.
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Can be reached via Turkey Foot by a half-fun pitch (half of it's great, the other half has thorn bushes). Great pitch up a super clean crack aside from the very large, teetering block (both blocks are loose). Dec 8, 2014
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
Linking this up with Turkey Foot Crack makes for a very enjoyable outing. Rather than going up the poorly protected dihedral at the top of Turkey Foot Crack, go further right and then find your way up. Jul 13, 2014
Cindy Mitchell
  5.10a
Cindy Mitchell  
  5.10a
Ho baby, this is a good route. Thin hands at the crux for my partners but sinker jams for me. Good footholds when you need them or jam those tootsies in the crack. Plenty of good rests to avoid the pump.

The small loose block under the big loose block is scary, scary, scary. It pulled out partway and I shoved it back in. I don't know if it will pull out all the way to be trundled and didn't want to find out, because I didn't want to kill my partner below me. You owe me, Roth :) Feb 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
You can easily climb west over the top of the Gonzo's Lament chimney and reach the raps on the Standard Route. This is a good idea if it is snowy to the north and the route is not busy. If you plan to rap into the gully to the north, bring some webbing for the bolts which have no chains or rings. Feb 28, 2011
More kudos to Kevin.
safeclimbing.org/areas/colo…
Kevin and company replaced 2 anchor bolts in '05. Feb 28, 2007
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
 
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
 
Thanks Kevin! Pretty stupid of me to forget that loose block in my description. I did, however, try to dislodge it while seconding my rope solo. It seemed a little less treacherous than when you are surprised by it on lead. Feb 25, 2003
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
This route was first done by Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975. It was named for the catnap taken on the summit. This route, while beautiful and fun, has some scary blocks on it. The guidebook has it listed as 2 pitches, but can be easily done in one. At the horizontal break where a belay is listed is a 8 foot tall perched block that rocks when grabbed at the top (very large). There is another loose flake you have to climb around mid route. If these blocks were cleaned up the route would be a lot more enjoyable!
You can descend with one 60m rope off the back side, but expect to do some downclimbing (rocks and trees) which is sketchy when snowcovered. Feb 9, 2003