Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m)
FA: [Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975]
Page Views: 3,479 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This fine handcrack is located on the northeast side of the Sunshine Wall. The best approach is to climb the first two pitches of Gonzo's Lament to reach the saddle between the Sunshine Wall and the Sunshine Face (Turkey Foot Tower). These pitches are pretty unremarkable, but the alternative is to scratch up the gully between the Sunshine Face and the Poe Buttress. Another possible approach is to climb the Turkey Foot Crack and continue to the saddle. This involves a poorly protected 5.10 corner and some 4th class around left. The crack is distinguished by a significant jog (crux) to the right towards its top. The beginning is somewhat wide, but the protection was pretty diverse, so the wide stuff is unnecessary. On the topos this route is two pitches, and there is a nice ledge to stop and belay. Better, though, is to link this into one long quality pitch with around 30' leftover on a 60m cord.

The rappel is close by, and it is possible to reach a safe ledge with one 60m.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles in hand size.

Photos