Avg: 3.2 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Chris Reveley & Mark "Buck" Norden, early 1970s|
|Page Views:||3,499 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||tobias nitchka on Feb 20, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
P1: head straight up. The 10a (right)/10c (left) variations present themselves at the overhanging block 60 feet up. Look for the knee lock up underneath on the left for a rest. Great varied climbing including stemming, arm locks, vertical finger cracks, jamming, and a mantel just past the crux. (This pitch is in the shade in the winter--hands might get a tad cool.) Belay on top of the block by the old red webbing, or continue up and left to combine the first two pitches, to another good ledge (in the sun!) 30 feet up.
P2: "We Scared O' de Goofa Man" heads right up a low angle gully type thing; you want to cross over and up to the left. Jam the short crack and gain the "perfect" South Platte belay spot.
P3: Not the dihedral above, but the body-wide ramp to the right that angles up to the vertical handcrack. Use passive pro while the climbing is easier to save your mid-size and larger cams for what waits above--hard, sustained jamming. In our estimation, this was clearly the hardest climbing of the route, several grades more challenging, strenous, and sustained than the 10c crux of the first pitch. However, the Hubbel/Rolofson guide has it listed at 10a. After 20 feet or so, it relents toward an easier angle. Continue up to the top.
Walk off the back, picking your way down a gully. There's a single necessary rappel from a pine on the right next to a big slab. The slings are a bit dicey.