Type: Trad, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dan Hare, Noel Childs, and John Durr
Page Views: 2,684 total · 20/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route has it all. It starts up a flared ear shape OW that feels hauntingly similar to "Horn's Mother" then blasts out diagonal/arching hands that gradually pinch to tips, you surmount a little step and tiptoe up a thin seam. Fantastic.

Location

This is left of the landmark routes at Sunshine. It's an arching crack with an ear at the start. There is a one bolt anchor and gear options to back up a TR. A rap off a slung tree gets you back to the base.

Edit to Add: The anchor has been upgraded to two bolts.

Protection

#4 Camalot down to green or yellow Alien. A couple RPs for the seam up top, I used a BD 4 and 2 RP and they were pretty good. Rap or lower from a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
Bob, you're right, Noel Childs was also involved with this one. Feb 17, 2008
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12-
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12-
Very enjoyable, don't be scared off by the OW looking flare at the bottom, it's pretty chill to just layback around it. I did think the seam up top was pretty heady, though, very insecure moves above small gear.
-Scott Jan 11, 2010
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Did this a few times in '95-'99. I also remember the flare OW being easy-hand fists in the back. The business is at the top of the arch. Bad feet, fingers. Above this, save a yellow Alien. The slab is also hard--mid 11 and protected by a so-so #5 RP. It held for me on one occasion. Aug 6, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12 PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12 PG13
I updated the anchor for this climb yesterday and moved it down slightly to facilitate a smoother rope pull/lower. Thanks to the BCC for the hardware!

Great route, but I think the moves past the RP warrant a PG-13. It's not particularly run out, but if that RP doesn't hold, you're going to take a big ride. Dec 10, 2017