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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dan Hare, Noel Childs, and John Durr
Page Views: 2,452 total, 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route has it all. It starts up a flared ear shape OW that feels hauntingly similar to "Horn's Mother" then blasts out diagonal/arching hands that gradually pinch to tips, you surmount a little step and tiptoe up a thin seam. Fantastic.

Location

This is left of the landmark routes at Sunshine. It's an arching crack with an ear at the start. There is a one bolt anchor and gear options to back up a TR. A rap off a slung tree gets you back to the base.

Edit to Add: The anchor has been upgraded to two bolts.

Protection

#4 Camalot down to green or yellow Alien. A couple RPs for the seam up top, I used a BD 4 and 2 RP and they were pretty good. Rap or lower from a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12 PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12 PG13
I updated the anchor for this climb yesterday and moved it down slightly to facilitate a smoother rope pull/lower. Thanks to the BCC for the hardware!

Great route, but I think the moves past the RP warrant a PG-13. It's not particularly run out, but if that RP doesn't hold your going to take a big ride. 1 day ago
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Did this a few times in '95-'99. I also remember the flare OW being easy-hand fists in the back. The business is at the top of the arch. Bad feet, fingers. Above this, save a yellow Alien. The slab is also hard--mid 11 and protected by a so-so #5 RP. It held for me on one occasion. Aug 6, 2010
Scott Bennett
  5.12-
Scott Bennett  
  5.12-
Very enjoyable, don't be scared off by the OW looking flare at the bottom, it's pretty chill to just layback around it. I did think the seam up top was pretty heady, though, very insecure moves above small gear.
-Scott Jan 11, 2010
Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
Bob, you're right, Noel Childs was also involved with this one. Feb 17, 2008