Avg: 3.3 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Chris Reveley and possibly Jim Michaels, circa 1973|
|Page Views:||7,658 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Milhaupt on Aug 31, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Pitch 1: Start in a crack directly below the large, right-facing dihedral on the left side of the first overhang. The start is a finger crack in a thin left facing dihedral between two trees. A hard start eases to 5.9 before the belay in a pod with new Metolius rap rings (hidden).
Pitch 2: Start up and step left to a ramp with a thin crack above it. Straight up to the dihedral, stem the dihedral with good holds out left. Belay at the slings, which may need to be replaced.
Pitch 3: Climb right from the belay and fire up an exposed move to the slab and up to the finger crack. Crank through steep finger locks to a pod. From here, it is obvious which way to go. Set a belay on the shelf after the roof crux. A two bolt anchor is shown on the right in Hubbel's guide, but I didn't see it. In my opinion, this pitch was a sandbag at 5.11a.
Pitch 4: 5.8 to the top.
Descent: Walk down the gully to the east between Poe Buttress and Sunshine Face. With two ropes, it may be better to rappel the Standard Route.