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Routes in Sunshine Wall

26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Arch Nemesis T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't mess with my Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promised Road T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wear Cattle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Price Glory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Steve "Norman" Dieckoff, Noel Childs, Strappo Hughes, and Jerry Rock, 6/88
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monty on Feb 19, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start in a chimney, clip a bolt, then make a commiting move out of the chimney on to the face, falling here is not reccomended as you will go swinging back into the chimney. Steep flakes, jugs, and some barn-door arete climbing with bad feet eventually lets up near the very top. Very sustained with multiple cruxes.

As of now, there is only 1 bolt at the anchor.... It's bomber, but it could definitely use another bolt and some chains.

Location

This is on the left side of Sunshine just right of Buckshot on the arete.

Protection

1 of each from #1 Camalot to small wires. Couple extra finger size to smaller pieces. 4 bolts total.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Hey Monty, this is listed in my '88 Hubbel book....

FA: Steve "Norman" Dieckoff, Noel Childs, Strappo Hughes, and Jerry Rock, 6/88. Feb 27, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11 PG13
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11 PG13
Pretty pumpy. The move out of the chimney was stellar.
Good idea, Patrick. Feb 20, 2011
Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
The best way to descend is to simul-rap off both sides of the tower. 1 60m should be long enough. Make sure you run the rope through the ring, so the rope doesn't roll. Glad you had fun on it, Monty; maybe I'll see you up there before the closure.

Thanks out to Kevin Stricker and Dave Russell for replacing the old bolts. Feb 20, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
I thought this was a challenging, thought-provoking climb that was very sustained. I'd give this route 3 stars if it wasn't for some friable rock throughout the route. Feb 19, 2011