Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Drew Bedford & Dana Hauser, 1987
Page Views: 8,761 total · 62/month
Shared By: triznuty on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

Brief, but good grief!
Great little route that gets too business from the start. If it were a little longer it would be a classic. Just go for it!

Protection

4 bolts + 2 rap hangers

Photos

WasatchChic
Salt Lake, Utah
 
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
 
Good grief is right! Fun, but pretty damn scary! Aug 6, 2008
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Powerful with a sequential upper section. Short enough that it definitely requires an attentive belayer and good communication - years ago I landed on my belayer's head after trying to pull the crux. Luckily it did an excellent job of stopping the fall. Oct 2, 2008
DTM
DTM  
SCARY. 12 after the last bolt and to the top. Sep 9, 2011
Zak123
  5.12b PG13
Zak123  
  5.12b PG13
Super fun climb, the crux can be done two different ways each one equally difficult. Once over the roof the climb is not over. The two wrap hangers are still about 8 feet above you so keep that in mind. Apr 10, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Greasy. My bacon isn't this greasy. Wet. Bad feet. Short. High probability of decking between every bolt. This climb is not in my mind a quality line. Much better 12b's in the canyon to try. Only 3 bolts plus new chain/biner anchors. Apr 24, 2012
Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
I don't think the greasy comment is appropriate. If you don't like 'em short and stout maybe it's not for you, but IMO it's a really cool 35' boulder problem with bolts. Apr 30, 2012
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
SW, "High probability of decking between every bolt". Who is your belayer man..? Maybe you should get one you can trust! I don't think I have ever felt like I would deck on this route if I fell after the first bolt. But then again, I only try to use belayers I can trust. This is a great climb and should be done! May 2, 2012
Guess I'll add a pointless comment as well.
This is actually a good solid 12. "Brief but good grief."
I would recommend going back on a good crisp day as a lot of the harder routes in BBC can feel a bit unnerving in the Spring. I think you will find it's not scary. If you want something as hard if not harder and with more bolts scramble up to Padded Cell it goes at 12C and is directly above Big in Japan. May 5, 2012
Jason MT
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Jason MT   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
If you are concerned about falling on this, it is easy to TR. Just climb the 2 pitch route called Encore (it's a good warm-up anyway.) You can rap down to the Big in Japan anchors from the top using a 60m... but just barely, so make sure your rope is centered. Jun 16, 2012
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
 
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
 
This thing is classic Big ish and its not that greasy or dangerous give it a quick brush and send Jun 27, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
 
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
 
oh and if you climb this thing around dusk in late spring, you will be eaten alive by mosquitoes.

+1 for fat back bacon grease. Apr 23, 2013
Hey Guys, it's really not appropriate to fix draws on climbs that are readily visible from multi-use, developed recreation areas such as the Storm Mountain Picnic Area. That goes for the recent fixed draw escapades over at Cross-Eyed and Painless which is easily visible from the road.

Years ago, one of the first actions of the SLCA was to start a dialogue with the concessionaire running the place that was not allowing climbers access through the picnic area.

Think about it. May 20, 2013
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Not just the fixed draw, JK, but, the rap chains are super visible. Bright shiny and huge. I appreciate whoever is maintaining routes, but, please, camo the chains. They are REALLY high visibility and the area, with the little amphitheater and paved trails below, is high traffic for non-climbers. Jul 13, 2013
Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
I agree that the chains could be more inconspicuous, but the Metolius rap hangers are terrible. They kink up the rope and are a pain to thread. Jul 17, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
 
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
 
Fixed draw is back... Jul 18, 2013
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I first did this route when I was 17 or 18, in 98ish? Came back 17 years later, repeated! Ha. It was surprisingly thuggish. I must have been fit.

Bolts through the roof are both looking worse for wear. I took falls on both of them, but definitely spooky. Apr 10, 2015
Elias M
  5.12b
Elias M  
  5.12b
Really fun route, a little scary with some decking potential if you blow the clip but the clipping stances are good. Stays shady during the afternoon. Got a video of the climb:


youtube.com/watch?v=amAhV9Z… Aug 15, 2016
Seth Reelitz   Utah
I noticed yesterday that all of the old bolts have been replaced with glue-ins. Jul 2, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Thanks to Jimmy Keithley and Jonathan Knight of the SLCA for the glue-in bolts. Aug 11, 2017