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Big in Japan
5.12b,
Sport, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 3 from 97
votes
FA: Drew Bedford & Dana Hauser, 1987
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Storm Mtn Picni…
> Storm Mtn Island
Access Issue: See bullet points in description.
Details
Description
Brief, but good grief! Great little route that gets too business from the start. If it were a little longer it would be a classic. Just go for it!
[Hide Comment] Powerful with a sequential upper section. Short enough that it definitely requires an attentive belayer and good communication - years ago I landed on my belayer's head after trying to pull the crux. Luckily it did an excellent job of stopping the fall.
Oct 2, 2008
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb, the crux can be done two different ways each one equally difficult. Once over the roof the climb is not over. The two wrap hangers are still about 8 feet above you so keep that in mind.
Apr 10, 2012
[Hide Comment] Greasy. My bacon isn't this greasy. Wet. Bad feet. Short. High probability of decking between every bolt. This climb is not in my mind a quality line. Much better 12b's in the canyon to try. Only 3 bolts plus new chain/biner anchors.
Apr 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] I don't think the greasy comment is appropriate. If you don't like 'em short and stout maybe it's not for you, but IMO it's a really cool 35' boulder problem with bolts.
Apr 30, 2012
[Hide Comment] SW, "High probability of decking between every bolt". Who is your belayer man..? Maybe you should get one you can trust! I don't think I have ever felt like I would deck on this route if I fell after the first bolt. But then again, I only try to use belayers I can trust. This is a great climb and should be done!
May 2, 2012
[Hide Comment] Guess I'll add a pointless comment as well. This is actually a good solid 12. "Brief but good grief." I would recommend going back on a good crisp day as a lot of the harder routes in BBC can feel a bit unnerving in the Spring. I think you will find it's not scary. If you want something as hard if not harder and with more bolts scramble up to Padded Cell it goes at 12C and is directly above Big in Japan.
May 5, 2012
[Hide Comment] If you are concerned about falling on this, it is easy to TR. Just climb the 2 pitch route called Encore (it's a good warm-up anyway.) You can rap down to the Big in Japan anchors from the top using a 60m... but just barely, so make sure your rope is centered.
Jun 16, 2012
[Hide Comment] Hey Guys, it's really not appropriate to fix draws on climbs that are readily visible from multi-use, developed recreation areas such as the Storm Mountain Picnic Area. That goes for the recent fixed draw escapades over at Cross-Eyed and Painless which is easily visible from the road.
Years ago, one of the first actions of the SLCA was to start a dialogue with the concessionaire running the place that was not allowing climbers access through the picnic area.
[Hide Comment] Not just the fixed draw, JK, but, the rap chains are super visible. Bright shiny and huge. I appreciate whoever is maintaining routes, but, please, camo the chains. They are REALLY high visibility and the area, with the little amphitheater and paved trails below, is high traffic for non-climbers.
Jul 13, 2013
[Hide Comment] I agree that the chains could be more inconspicuous, but the Metolius rap hangers are terrible. They kink up the rope and are a pain to thread.
Jul 17, 2013
[Hide Comment] I first did this route when I was 17 or 18, in 98ish? Came back 17 years later, repeated! Ha. It was surprisingly thuggish. I must have been fit.
Bolts through the roof are both looking worse for wear. I took falls on both of them, but definitely spooky.
Apr 10, 2015
[Hide Comment] Really fun route, a little scary with some decking potential if you blow the clip but the clipping stances are good. Stays shady during the afternoon. Got a video of the climb:
[Hide Comment] Beta intensive climb with minimal rests. Similar to all chalk in LCC with it's slab wall, crimpy holds and awful feet. (BIJ is a touch harder.) Crux is after 3rd bolt through pulling the roof. I'd give it 4 stars if longer. Although, not sure how much more I could have taken!
Watch video to see the right hand under cling beta.
[Hide Comment] The start is a wee bit harder now. A large block is laying below the route that held a couple starting footholds. So now it truely is On form the start.
Jul 27, 2020
[Hide Comment] What’s with all the talk of decking? This coming from a guy who fell all over the place :) seems safe enough for a whipper or two.
May 31, 2023
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Salt Lake, Utah
Smog Lake City, UT
Grand Junction
Sandy
Salt Lake City, UT
This is actually a good solid 12. "Brief but good grief."
I would recommend going back on a good crisp day as a lot of the harder routes in BBC can feel a bit unnerving in the Spring. I think you will find it's not scary. If you want something as hard if not harder and with more bolts scramble up to Padded Cell it goes at 12C and is directly above Big in Japan. May 5, 2012
Salt Lake City, Utah
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City
+1 for fat back bacon grease. Apr 23, 2013
Years ago, one of the first actions of the SLCA was to start a dialogue with the concessionaire running the place that was not allowing climbers access through the picnic area.
Think about it. May 20, 2013
Sandy, Utah
Sandy
Salt Lake City
Salt Lake City, Utah
Bolts through the roof are both looking worse for wear. I took falls on both of them, but definitely spooky. Apr 10, 2015
youtube.com/watch?v=amAhV9Z… Aug 15, 2016
Utah
Wasatch Back, UT
West Jordan
Crux is after 3rd bolt through pulling the roof.
I'd give it 4 stars if longer. Although, not sure how much more I could have taken!
Watch video to see the right hand under cling beta.
youtu.be/rpl_jPf2wZw May 3, 2019
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City, Utah
Sandy, UT
Chicago, IL