Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,144 total · 22/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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This climb is approached by traversing along the ledges on the East face of the island (paralleling the stream). When you gain a ledge with a tree, (you will see a small 4 bolted route, with the bottom bolt missing a hanger, climb up a left facing corner/ramp to a ledge and continue on north. You will see a pair of cracks, with a bolted route in the middle. This is the left-most crack. Climb this thin crack to the roof, and pop over. The anchors are to the right.


Bring a selection of medium gear for the anchors. There are 2 anchors on a new bolted route to the right. HOWEVER, 1 of these bolts is suspect. Beware.


Pinetop, AZ
TobinPetty   Pinetop, AZ
There is a new set (anchor) of bolts with rap rings at the top of this route; thank you to the person(s) who set this up, it is appreciated. May 2, 2006
Walt Haas
Salt Lake City, UT
Walt Haas   Salt Lake City, UT
At the higher end of the 5.5 range, almost a 5.6. Bring some small stoppers and cams to protect the thin crack.

From the anchor at the top, you can boulder back down to the starting ledge by a gully to the south, or you can scramble over the top of the island and from there hike on established trails back to the picnic area, or farther west to Salt Lake Slips for some fun bolted climbs. Mar 28, 2007
tony tuttle
Salt Lake City, UT
tony tuttle   Salt Lake City, UT
There are also some rap anchors at the base of this climb. So, once you're there, if you want to rap off instead of descending you can do so. However, the rap lands you right in the drink. The water was pretty low when we did the route in September so it was a non-issue. It might be more interesting in higher water. Sep 7, 2010
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Terrific climb to teach new trad leaders on. Very good climbing - better than Layback Crack in my opinion. Aug 31, 2015
Seth Reelitz
Seth Reelitz   Utah
There is a bird nest in top of the crack as of today, they were agitated and very aggressive. I would avoid the route until the little ones are off on their own. May 24, 2017
The anchor at the top of this is suspect. Both are rusted on the top and the spinner (left bolt) is rusted between the hanger and the rock. I wouldnt trust these anchors in the current state Oct 2, 2017
There are two nice anchor bolts with good hangars and rap rings directly at the top of this route as of late September 2018. No need to use the suspect anchor to the right. Sep 28, 2018