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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Lenny Nelson
Page Views: 1,824 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Approach as per Nice Little Crack. This is the bolted face. Tricky start over the 1st roof, leads to edges and fun climbing. Midway you will find a bulge, friction over this avoiding the foot crack to the left. Finally, trick #3, pop over the top roof. And there... the anchors?.

Protection

2 bolts atop for the anchor, BEWARE one is suspect. Also, 7 draws for the route. You will also need a small set of medium gear for the upper roof.

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
OK route that would be very good with one more bolt at the roof. Definitely a candidate for rebolting - rusted stud bolts, most likely with mixed metals. Aug 31, 2015
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
  5.7
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
  5.7
Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams). Apr 30, 2013
Daniel Winder
  5.7 PG13
Daniel Winder  
  5.7 PG13
Needlessly PG-13. The last bolt is way too low to prevent a ledge fall if you somehow blew it going over the roof. Aug 17, 2012
tony tuttle
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8- PG13
tony tuttle   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8- PG13
Climbed on 9/5/2010. I liked the crag, nice place to get away to on an otherwise crowded Storm Mountain Saturday. Nobody else ventured to these climbs.

The climb itself is pretty fun. Nothing too difficult, the crux for me was where the blocky holds disappear and there are a couple of smeary moves on rounded rock.

The roof was really fun to pull over as well but nothing too crazy.

The suspect bolt is still there. We backed up the anchor with a nut placed a little lower.

This place is worth the extra approach if you don't want to fight crowds. Sep 7, 2010
Walt Haas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Walt Haas   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
IIRC Lenny Nelson told me a few years ago that he had bolted this route. Unfortunately I forgot the name he gave it :-( Nice route though.

With TR protection, you can climb the slightly more difficult face a few feet to climber's left of the bolts. Mar 28, 2007
Harvey Miller
  5.8
Harvey Miller  
  5.8
Yeah, one of the anchors at the top is bad. A good option is to use the good anchor as a bolt, and then finish the climb by traversing to the left to the anchors at the top of Nice Little Crack. Its not very far. Belay your follower from the top, and then rap from those anchors. Jun 16, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
I climbed this in Fall 2001. The anchor at the top was pretty crappy. Look for a (better) third bolt up above the first two (one of which spins). I found a CTR ring up here on a tiny (2"x2") ledge. Weird. Apr 22, 2005