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Captain Jack
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.6 from 31
votes
Routes in Storm Mountain Island
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Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1 |
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Amphitheater Overhang Right A1 |
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Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crag Turkey Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Six Addict T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Unknown 2 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Wind Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, August 2008 |
| Page Views: | 4,021 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Captain Jack climbs the two-tiered arete right of Six Pence in two pitches.
P1: The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams (as noted by one of the comments, a set of chains has been recently added (not by me) just below the ledge). The first pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper.
P2: The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.
A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars IMO -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts (this is currently posted as Wind Up, but at one point was posted as Steve the Pirate). It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). NB: Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide shows the first pitch of Captain Jack and this 5-bolt finish as "Broken Fin" and first climbed in 1997 (but it doesn't say by who).
P1: The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams (as noted by one of the comments, a set of chains has been recently added (not by me) just below the ledge). The first pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper.
P2: The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.
A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars IMO -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts (this is currently posted as Wind Up, but at one point was posted as Steve the Pirate). It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). NB: Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide shows the first pitch of Captain Jack and this 5-bolt finish as "Broken Fin" and first climbed in 1997 (but it doesn't say by who).
Location
To the right of Six Pence is a large, dark chimney/gully. Captain Jack climbs the somewhat low-angle arete to the right of the chimney/gully. The easiest way to find Six Pence and Captain Jack is to go to the upper left end of the amphitheater and walk left along the base of the crag up a scree slope to its top, above which the bolts on Six Pence are obvious.
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