Avg: 1.6 from 28 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, August 2008|
|Page Views:||3,402 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
P1: The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams (as noted by one of the comments, a set of chains has been recently added (not by me) just below the ledge). The first pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper.
P2: The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.
A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars IMO -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts (this is currently posted as Wind Up, but at one point was posted as Steve the Pirate). It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). NB: Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide shows the first pitch of Captain Jack and this 5-bolt finish as "Broken Fin" and first climbed in 1997 (but it doesn't say by who).