Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, August 2008
Page Views: 3,402 total · 23/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Captain Jack climbs the two-tiered arete right of Six Pence in two pitches.

P1: The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams (as noted by one of the comments, a set of chains has been recently added (not by me) just below the ledge). The first pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper.

P2: The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.

A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars IMO -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts (this is currently posted as Wind Up, but at one point was posted as Steve the Pirate). It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). NB: Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide shows the first pitch of Captain Jack and this 5-bolt finish as "Broken Fin" and first climbed in 1997 (but it doesn't say by who).

Location

To the right of Six Pence is a large, dark chimney/gully. Captain Jack climbs the somewhat low-angle arete to the right of the chimney/gully. The easiest way to find Six Pence and Captain Jack is to go to the upper left end of the amphitheater and walk left along the base of the crag up a scree slope to its top, above which the bolts on Six Pence are obvious.

Protection

Standard trad rack. The majority of the protection is in horizontal cracks (some ingenuity may be necessary). The 2 bolts on the lower arete and the bolt on the upper arete were added after the FA. Walk off the top to the right.

Photos