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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: John Storm, Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1988
Page Views: 2,643 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 23, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Just right of Goodro's Wall is a glass surface that someone decided was climbable. This route actually start in the gully to the right, and does a hand traverse along the obvious crack halfway up. Upon reaching the piton hidden in the crack, start to climb up the right-angling weaknesses/ crack, past a "lost" micro-nut, and continue to a thin finger ledge. From here launch into a couple of rightward lunges to good 2-3 finger ledges and pump out the climb. Not too technical, just tough on the fingers and almost no feet.

Protection

2 draws for the anchor (Goodro's Wall). Micro-nuts for the lead.

Photos

Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Anyone ever fall on the obvious blue tcu at the top before the crux? I lead this once with the mindset that I was going to push and take the whip on that piece but ended up holding on and sending. I've never had the guts to go back and lead it again.

This one seems like a much better route to headpoint then onsight if 12b is near your limit. Jun 22, 2017
Zak123
 
Zak123  
 
Another favorite up BCC. Awesome traverse on good edges to some great climbing up through the small crack system. Old piton still seems to be good but who really knows. It's a must do if you like spicy BCC lines. Oct 30, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
This was my hardest TR onsight, and because I have a pair of previously crushed heel bones, I opted to never attempt the lead...that cracked up rock supporting the gear placements gave me no confidence. As with any traditional climb, when you add "Place Gear" on to "Do Moves", you add significantly to the challenge and the difficulty. Having led Big in Japan (a clip-up), I think this route is .12b solid...to lead, placing all gear...just sayin'...and once you step off that hand traverse, it's business all the way. May 31, 2015
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
The topo photo is somewhat misleading. This is a contrivance, but Gen Gap does not use any holds on Goodro's. There is a thin network of cracks just right of GW. Traverse in from the right, climb directly up via thin cracks and face holds. Do it this way (FA style) while putting in all the gear. Legit 12b. Aug 24, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Yeah maybe I'm being premature. A friend of mine just mentioned that he thought it was really soft, more like .11d, so that got me wondering. Hopefully I'll redpoint the thing soon, so I'll have a good idea then. Oct 10, 2007
tenesmus  
 
Felt harder than BiJ to me. The gear is there but pumper. Rate it after you place some gear on it. Oct 10, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
How hard do you guys think this is? It seems kind of soft at .12b, especially compared to Big in Japan. I also added a short loop of webbing to the first fixed pin, since a biner clipped directly into the pin was loading over the edge of the hand traverse a bit. No micro nuts needed as far as I can tell, just a couple draws and small TCUs. Wiggling in micro gear any higher than the obvious blue TCU would be way too hard I think. Still getting my nerve up for the redpoint... Oct 10, 2007
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12b
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12b
alittle chossy at the top. cool movz Jan 28, 2006