Storm Mountain Stupor
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,662 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2004 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Salt Lake City, UT
A good route for someone learning to lead trad pro, since there are a variety of placements in the crack. Just below the overhang you can thread a couple of long slings through a non-obvious hole behind a flake to protect the overhang move, which in my opinion is the funnest move on the pitch. It's no more difficult than the rest of the climb, but a lot less obvious.
There are now some anchor bolts near the top, but they are offset north (climber's right) of the correct rope line for Storm Mountain Stupor and seem better placed for the top of Layback Crack. If you use these bolts for Storm Mountain Stupor your rope runs over rocks to climber's right of the pitch, and there is even a rope-sized crack in those rocks to jam it. On the other hand, since this is likely to be one of a beginner's first trad pro leads, maybe this is a good lesson :-) A couple of large cams can be used to build an anchor on a better rope line at a point higher up and farther from the top of the pitch. Mar 28, 2007
New Jersey