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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,634 total, 13/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

From the ledge at the bottom of La Creme De Shorts, step left around the arete and climb over a bulge formed by a loose-looking (but apparently solid) block. If the block seems too risky, you can move left and turn the bulge (protection in horizontal cracks) then step back right and join the original line. Follow weaknesses up and left to a clean reddish face. (The reddish face is above the ledge system that connects the top of the initial La Creme corner with the belay for Storm Mountain Stupor). Climb the wide but easy crack on the reddish face, move left, then take a line just right of a tree over several bulges to the large ledge on which Layback Crack ends. Belay from cams in horizontal cracks.

When we did this, my 9- and 11-year-old partners rated it 5.5, but it likely would be a handful for a novice leader, hence the rating. A post indicates that this had been climbed before, which I don't doubt given the long history and popularity of the "Island," but since we appear to be the first to report it, I'm calling it by the name suggested by my partners.

NB (July 22, 2017): Just noticed that Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide calls this line "Ramblin' Man" and gives the date of the FA as 1995 (but doesn't say by who).

Location

Left of the La Creme De Shorts/Layback Crack corners (and their variations) and right of Storm Mountain Stupor.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Protection is tricky but adequate so long as the rack includes cams and long runners. No heartburn here if someone wants to add fixed gear. To descend, either walk off by scrambling left then up and over the top, or rappel from the bolts atop Layback Crack, which are 20 or so feet from the end of the route to the up and to the right. For the rappel, a 70 meter rope will get you down in one go; otherwise, you're looking at two rappels.

Photos

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
this has been solo'd before Nov 30, 2009