Avg: 2 from 53 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Brian Smoot, Ben Smoot|
|Page Views:||4,200 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Brough on Jul 9, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
This may be an old route that was retro-bolted (the FA reported that there were no indications that it had been climbed before). The first pitch climbs the face to the left of the Amphitheater Overhang (2 bolts) and moves out and around a small roof crux (1 bolt). You can either hop over the arete above the overhang or remain in the short dihedral. Then, walk over to the chains on the East-facing slab. Continue up the arete past several more bolts. There is a small runout section before a piton that can be protected with gear, but I ran it out for fun. I thought that this was a mostly 5.6 climb with a few 5.7 moves, but I gave it the + because my buddy insists that the roof is 5.8.
Between Amphitheater Left Overhang and the Flake. Look for two bolts facing North and another bolt facing East. You can see the belay chains above the Amphitheater Overhang Right. Walking off is faster and easier than making two rappels off (unless you have a 70 meter rope which barely gets you down).