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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Lynn Wheeler
Page Views: 1,165 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 8, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Edit]

Just right of Amphitheater Overhang, are some warped layers of rock. Climb these crossing over to the cracks above Big in Japan's anchors. The lower portions are good with some weird moves involved, and the upper crack/face is nice with sharp edges and good hands. However, the middle section is loose, well the entire climb has looseness to it, but the middle section gets dangerous. As we climbed it we avoided the initial traverse right just above the anchors due to rotten rock everywhere. A flake the size of a laptop came off in my hands. If it cleaned up, which I don't see, it would vastly improve.

Protection [Edit]

Medium to small gear seemed to work the best, with some runners. Cam's almost seemed imperative.

Photos

If it cleaned up it would dissappear. This thing scares me. Apr 8, 2007
John Steiger  
 
Full value trad climbing, particularly if you traverse right as soon as possible to gain the face above Big In Japan (rather than staying in the loose stuff and later stepping right to the finishing cracks). Ruckmans' guide says to take micronuts and small TCUs; I only needed one of each in the section immediately above Big in Japan. An optional descent is to rap of Encore to the left. Sep 1, 2008
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
An obscure "collectors edition" route that was too unique to not climb. Those folds of interbedded quartzite and shale are too cool! Although there was a lot of suspect rock, the lower half ate-up cams (mostly 1 inch and smaller). I enjoyed it, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone without years of trad climbing experience. May 26, 2017

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