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Padded Cell
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Storm Mountain Island
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Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1 |
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Amphitheater Overhang Right A1 |
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Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crag Turkey Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Six Addict T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Six Appeal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steve the Pirate aka Wind Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.6239, -111.7446 |
| FA: | Drew Bedford 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,769 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Quitiquit on Jul 18, 2013 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
Details
- Climbing at Storm Mountain is NOT CLOSED and climbers are allowed to continue to access climbing via Storm Mountain Picnic Area
- Parking in the Storm Mountain parking area requires a fee.
- Climbers are encouraged to use the Storm Mountain bathroom in order to protect our watershed.
- If climbing at or near the amphitheater in Storm Mountain (Big in Japan, Edge of Time) while the amphitheater is reserved or an event is on going, please consider climbing at other crags.
- Respect parking hours to avoid your car being gated in overnight. Gate closes at 10:00 p.m. daily
- If you did not reserve the facilities (amphitheater or picnic tables), please do not occupy or place personal items on the picnic tables.
- Please help the camp hosts keep the landscape clean.
(NOTE: these points are duplicated here from the Storm Mountain description so that they show up under the sub-areas.)
Description
It seems, as usual, the Ruckmans had it best, "The smooth face above the amphitheater overhang will drive you stark-raving mad."
Climb off the ledge on good positive crimps and distinct feet passing two bolts. At the third bolt there are two options...
Option 1 - bust hard left and climb powerful yet delicates liebacks up and around joining the bolt line back after a tiny roof. 12a
Option 2 - Sell your sanity to the devil and climb directly though the bolt line and make highsteps and delicate footwork through small crimps and an improbably half pad pinch. Keep it together to the next bolt. 12c - this is where the Ruckman-ism holds truth.
Follow positive but still engaging (5.11) holds to the anchors.
I'm giving it 5.12 - the Guidebook says 12a or 12c. You choose.
Location
Up and above the Amphitheater overhang on the smooth slightly over-vertical face. Several options to get to it.
1. Climb the first pitch of Encore (5.7) to the anchors below the face. 2
2. Climb the first pitch of the Flake (5.6) to the anchors below the face
3. Get your Grr face on and climb Amphitheater Overhang Left (.12e) and cool down on Padded Cell.
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