Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crag Turkey Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Lenny Nelson
Page Views: 5,817 total · 28/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Aug 7, 2001 with updates from Chris5
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


130 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begins at the top of a talus slope, just to the left of Bolt Route and several hundred feet west (right) of Goodro's Wall and Six Appeal. Bolts angle up to the right with fun moves on various size edges. Stay left near the top to make it more challenging. Careful on the descent as you are lowered into a chasm (watch your head)!

"Six Pence and Aqualung were the original "Locomotive Breath" established in the early 90's . There was a variation, for those who did not want to do the overhang, that traversed across above the first pitch ( to the west) and ascended a arête via three bolts to a face via two bolts to the top and single bolt anchor. The variation was named "wind up". I was listening to Jethro Tull that day. The first pitch later had another bolt with a set of chains added when I found climbers liked top roping the first pitch" -L. Nelson

Protection

6 bolts with two chains on top for anchor.

Photos

I loved this climb! Cool breezes and a spectacular view. It was the perfect amount of challenge for me, as I am still not fond of ANY overhang and still in LOVE with BIG hand and foot holds!! Definitely a good one for me to trust my feet and make the move without knowing what's ahead! Sep 29, 2001
Mason  
Nice climb. My only complaint about it is that when you lower you end up going ito the crack on the side, and if your partner is lowering you too fast the shale edges in the crack can crack your ankles...On second thought, maybe that's an issue to take up with my partner. Anyway, good climb, and very private. The next closest sport route is Goodro's about 50 yards around the corner. Jun 27, 2003
Peter Gram
Portland, OR
  5.6
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  
  5.6
There are only 6 bolts on this climb. Well bolted and safe. Apr 11, 2004
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
  5.6
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
  5.6
Fun little climb to start the season off, A little tricky to clean if you don't do it from the ground up. Seems like it stays shady. Apr 26, 2006
Walt Haas
Salt Lake City, UT
Walt Haas   Salt Lake City, UT
Don't fail to notice the historic rusty small bolt and home-made hanger near the bottom. Mar 28, 2007
Does this climb have a second pitch that goes through a roof and requires somewhat dicey run out climbing to the top and no fixed anchors? or am I disoriented? Not exactly sure where we were, but it was my first time on this well worn climb?

All bolts are pretty rusted and I replaced the worn chain at the first belay. Last single bolt near the top had a quick link attached and we got caught in a thunderstorm and hurriedly walked off. Felt wild given our conditions? Jun 1, 2009
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
 
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
 
My buddy just led this route (his first lead ever)with a headlamp in the dark. It's pretty easy, but gets a bit exposed about 2/3 of the way up. Oct 14, 2011
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Does anyone know what the climb immediately right of Six Pence, but left of Bolt Route is? Climbing this route today, I could see two high but good-looking bolts on a blunt arete feature, ending at a bolted anchor, but no other bolts, and no obvious gear placements? Just curious. Jun 13, 2014
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.6
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.6
Probably this route Aqualung. Jun 13, 2014
Rochelle S
Salt Lake City, UT
5.6
Rochelle S   Salt Lake City, UT
5.6
I thought it was pretty hard to find this route, the bolts are kind of camouflaged. Keep 3 draws in for directionals to make sure the followers don't fall into the chimney on Their way up. Apr 4, 2015
Nathan G
Utah
 
Nathan G   Utah
 
This was not too hard to find (just look for the dark crack/gully to the right of it). I thought the climbing was fairly easy, but super run out in the middle. Either I missed a bolt, or there was a 15ft run out over the blocky middle section. Jul 18, 2016
Found a ring at the base of six pence. If you can describe it then I'll work on returning it to you. Sep 4, 2016
MMcK  
This route was just re-bolted with the glue in anchors, new chains at the top. Chains are painted with similar color as the rock. Very nicely done. Was just there yesterday climbing. Needs a little brooming off but a very nice climb. Run out through the middle is still there, but it is easy enough that it should not be an issue. Jul 25, 2017
Thankyou Jul 25, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
 
Thanks for the rebolting job whoever did that. I enjoyed this climb it was surprisingly consistent for BCC 5.6 with a mix of smearing and good edging. Aug 11, 2017
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
Who ever rebolted this route did a really messy job with the glue-ins and it looks terrible! The Anchor bolts are at funky angles as well and overall I see it as a disservice to the climbing community to leave it as it is. Whoever did this please fix your work! May 20, 2018
Six Pence and Aqualung are the original "Locomotive Breath" established in the early 90's . There was a variation, for those who did not want to do the overhang, that traversed across above the first pitch ( to the west) and ascended a arĂȘte via three bolts to a face via two bolts to the top and single bolt anchor. The variation was named "wind up". I was listening to Jethro Tull that day. The first pitch later had another bolt with a set of chains added when I found climbers liked top roping the first pitch. Lenny Nelson October 2018 Oct 6, 2018

More About Six Pence

Printer-Friendly