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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 2008
Page Views: 1,219 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Edge of Time is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the Big in Japan anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of Thin Slice in Time. However, IMO this is a more logical and better way to get to the cracks than doing Thin Slice (no offense to Thin Slice's FA party).

Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of Big in Japan. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of Big in Japan's anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.

Location

Right of Big in Japan.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of Encore. Turning the corner onto the Big in Japan face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. I'll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.

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John Steiger  
 
No sweat Spence, to each his own. How did you find the protection getting out of the chimney and onto the face? I'm thinking about putting a bolt in to protect that section. Apr 27, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Would recommend thin slice over this variation. Sorry. Apr 24, 2012