Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 2008
Page Views: 1,324 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Edge of Time is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the Big in Japan anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of Thin Slice in Time. However, IMO this is a more logical and better way to get to the cracks than doing Thin Slice (no offense to Thin Slice's FA party).

Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of Big in Japan. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of Big in Japan's anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.

Location

Right of Big in Japan.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of Encore. Turning the corner onto the Big in Japan face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. I'll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Would recommend thin slice over this variation. Sorry. Apr 24, 2012
John Steiger
  5.10b
John Steiger  
  5.10b
No sweat Spence, to each his own. How did you find the protection getting out of the chimney and onto the face? I'm thinking about putting a bolt in to protect that section. Apr 27, 2012