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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Anonymous Jethro Tull fan
Page Views: 5,738 total, 42/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Aug 10, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

You can find this route above Six Pence. From the anchor on top of Six Pence go up a broken face to the right, clip a bolt and move right through a roof(crux, a medium nut will protect the move to get to the next bolt for the shorter climbers). Climb the fun face above passing several bolts. At the top is a single bolt with chain link on it. We continued to the top, slung a block for the anchor and walked off.

Location

Above Six Pence on Storm Mountain Island North face.

Protection

5 bolts, small to medium nuts (optional).

Photos

zoso
 
zoso  
 
Now equipped with 2 chains. You can rap into the choss gully with a 70m with ~20' of EZ down climbing. Aug 29, 2017
Right above six pence. first bold is right under a roof 15-20 feet up and to the right of the anchors for 6P, note that it is possible to climb 6P and just keep going past the anchors to the first bolt of Aqualung, I recommend this as the ascent from the anchors of 6p to the first bolt of aqualung is unexpectedly loose. 5 draws required. to start you are immediately faced with a roof, there is a crack for you to traverse on at the bottom with your feet, it goes nowhere. you must go up and over the bulge, not too difficult, tons of juggy holds. a small stopper might help with this part, but most should have no problem. follow the arete up along the rest of the bolts. no loose rock or bolts as of 7/2/2017, at the top there is one bolt with a single chain. To get off, you can either walk off or rap down to the bolts for 6p. 60 meters is fine, no special draws required, in the sun all day sadly until about 7:30pm. as for the rating i think 5.8 is a bit conservative, the bottom 75 percent of the climb is enough to warrant a 5.9 rating. Jul 3, 2017
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The climb isn't improved with gear. The bolts are all there, but make sure that as you approach the roof, you work right on the ledge to find the bolt that protects the roof moves. I approached the roof from the left and climbed past the bolt the first time. The roof itself has a lot of loose rock and is wild for 5.8. Several tempting handholds and gear placements turn out to be dangerously loose. I also found the crux perplexing and had to back off a couple of times before putting it together, though it felt perfectly safe once I located the bolt.

Aside from the crux, the climbing is all 5.5.

We climbed to the top, slung a block, and walked off. The quicklink on the bolt looked fine and is probably safe, we just wanted to top out. I recommend bringing one short runner for the first bolt and a 48 inch sling for an anchor, no other gear necessary or even helpful, though as mentioned, there is plenty of opportunity to make a gear anchor (mostly around semi-detached blocks) with finger sized gear to a BD #2.

This route could clean up in time, but given the lack of an anchor and how little traffic it gets, that doesn't seem likely. Jul 17, 2014
ddriver
SLC
  5.9-
ddriver   SLC
  5.9-
Did this yesterday, thought it was pretty darn good. There are six bolts, one below the roof, three on the slab above, and two higher. I thought the finishing moves above the last bolt were worthwhile, would not recommend a rap station there. Finger-sized gear for the belay. Oct 21, 2013
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
  5.8+
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
  5.8+
Really fun route, but could be better.

There was a lot of loose rock on the upper sections and even a bit under the roof. I pulled a few holds off the upper section of the climb by hand with very little effort. Below and to the left of the last bolt there are few larger loose sections of rock that could use some trundling if this thing sees more ascents. The falls in this section would be clean, but rock fall would be a big hazard to those below.

The last bolt had a steel quick link on it for rappel. I climbed above this, and over the next roof, to see if the climb kept going but it didn't add much to the route so I down climbed to the bolt and belayed from there. If the last bolt was turned into an anchor it would provide an easy rap and feels like a logical place to end the climb. Apr 21, 2013
Tim Harper  
 
Solid bolts on this route (most bolts in Storm Mountain are very well maintained). Easy, fun climb. Sep 12, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Met a guy here many years ago who I think put this route up - he called it "Aqualung" - must have been a Tull fan! May 16, 2012
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.9
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.9
Loved it! Perplexing crux - had to back off a few times before I figured it out. Sweet moves, then gets pretty easy. Slung block for anchor. Walked off. Used light rack. Oct 3, 2010
This is what we must have climbed...see comment for six pence. I thought it was pretty wild for the grade and considering the rest of the thing was fully bolted for two pitches, felt like a bolted belay would be nice and was somewhat surprised not to find one?, but anybody else feel the same way? Bolts are old, correct? Jun 1, 2009