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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,644 total, 18/month
Shared By: Adam Broadbent on May 8, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route can be found directly behind the Storm Mountain Amphitheatre, left of the prominent roof, in a corner, behind a pine tree (whew!). The first pitch follows a rough corner system 60' into a steep gully, to a belay off of cracks and boulders on left side of gully. Next pitch heads up opposite side of gully along a wide (5"), jagged crack that separates a huge block from the mountain. Sparse protection through here so take advatage of everything. After 50', mantle onto the block, clip finishing bolts of climb on outside face (or contrive a beautiful directional), and head up around brief face, off of the block to a rocky belay. Walk off as described for Layback Crack.

Protection

Bring a standard rack (camalot sizes to 3 & all stoppers). Bring some long runners to tie of trees and rocks at the belays. A cordellete helps out a lot.

Photos

greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
 
I led this as one pitch. I enjoyed it for a mellow outing, however, I think this is definitely not a climb to do as a first or "easy" trad lead. First half (pitch) was good fun, it ate nuts and hexes. As it starts to get low angle and dirty put pro in! Your opportunities for pro soon dwindle. I only put one so so cam and regretted it later.

The final bit gets steeper. You would need a HUGE cam to protect the wide crack. I stayed left and looking carefully for gear and only got 1 piece in at the top before having to cross the crack and mantle onto the top of the block. The climbing is easy but you're looking at hitting the aforementioned ledge if you screw up. I haven't done the crack but like the edges to the left it would be hard to fall but.... It would be disastrous.

All this being said fun climb with a heads up run out. Cool location and cool finish at the end. Aug 11, 2017
Solace
  5.6
Solace  
  5.6
Classic BCC trad route. Sling the pinched boulder in the alcove atop pitch #1 for a natural pro anchor. +1 on the sparse pro in the upper reaches of P2. Even the biggest BD cam only works in one spot but there is a few more obscure placements. One of the best belay stations on the island. Anchors may need replacing. Mar 28, 2015
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
Belayers beware! The first pitch is rather dirty. Watch out for falling rocks! Oct 8, 2010
Jon Behrmann
Herriman
  5.6
Jon Behrmann   Herriman
  5.6
Pitch # 1 fun climb. Climb about 60 feet. Place your gear in areas to prevent rope drag and use long runners. I only set 2 pieces on this pitch. Fun beginner climb. When you get to a flat ledge you can stand on set a belay station.

Pitch # 2 traverse to the wall over to the right if your looking at the mountain head on. Climb the obvious crack. Their is scares protection unless you take some big cams. At the top you will see a place with two bolts in the wall. Set your belay their and bring the other climber up.

When the top is reached the rappel station is on the right side of your belay station on the wall that drops off. Dont worry about rappelling with a 60 meter rope. When you get about 3/4 of the way their is another set of chains to finish it off. May 29, 2009
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.5
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.5
Can be led in one pitch with a 60 meter rope. You can make two single rope rappels if you aren't fond of walk offs. I like to rappel over the Amphitheater Overhang and swing for a bit. My favorite part of the climb is at the beginning, inside the corner pulling around the two roofs. The finish is nice and airy though. Jun 29, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.5
Nathan Fisher  
  5.5
Nice climb. Love the finish. Apr 14, 2004