Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,522 total · 49/month
Shared By: GRK on Jun 3, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent route found on the tall and inviting, east side of Storm Mountain Island. Layback Crack offers a quality outing with a number of different options for ascending. Back when rock was young, this was most likely climbed in 2 or 3 pitches and without the use of fixed anchors. Today, you have the choice to climb this however you see fit. Originally this climbed the first corner to a ledge on the left (35 feet). It then continued up the corner until another, larger, more prominent ledge was found (75 feet). The route then followed broken terrain to the summit (20 feet).

Approach: If coming from the pay booth entrance, you will find the Layback Crack by crossing the first foot bridge and turning left down a small path to a few picnic tables (south). You will then follow a well-worn, but overgrown trail along the river to a striking 15' scramble up a corner.

P1: The first pitch starts directly up the obvious right-facing dihedral. Climb this corner for 35 feet and belay at an anchor on the ledge above La Creme De Shorts. For a quick and cleaner option, instead climb the corner for ~50 feet passing the first belay until you reach a wide, horizontal break below a small roof/corner. From here, head up and right across the face to a belay at chains about ~60 feet up. Continue ascending from this belay or lower. Alternatively, and possibly the best option, is to climb pitch 1 and 2 in one long pitch by sticking to the corner and going even higher to another large, right-facing, craggy corner to a belay ledge at the routes 3/4's mark. Another anchor exists here on a huge ledge. Stop here and belay or climb to the rim and build a belay. 

P2: Depending on where you stop, this next pitch leaves the first belay and follows the deteriorating and dirty right-facing corner from the first anchor up to another large belay ledge ~75' feet higher. If you skipped the first or second intermediate anchor, continue from the large upper belay ledge to the summit. If heading to the summit, build a belay under the bushes.

P3: If done in three pitches, the third pitch leaves from the larger, upper corner's ledge and involves a short stint up easy, broken terrain to the summit. Build a belay under the bushes.

Descent: If climbing to the summit, walk off the west towards the amphitheater and follow the trial around north and back into the picnic area. Otherwise rappel the route.

Protection Suggest change

Take a simple rack of small to large cams, and a full set of stoppers. Bring a sufficient amount of slings and maybe some double runners if you plan to build a belay. a 60 meter rope is plenty for all options of climbing and a 70 meter will get you down from the the anchor below the summit pitch.