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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,444 total · 41/month
Shared By: Adam Broadbent on Jun 3, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Description [Edit]

This route is found on the East side of Storm Mountain Island (along the river across from the parking lot). The route begins at a right facing dihedral that is accessed by crossing the bridge, turning left (south), following the trail along the river past some tables, and finally up a 25' scramble to the corner (very short). The first pitch proceeds directly up the corner for 35' to bolted belay off to the left on a nice ledge. Next pitch can either follow up the deteriorating corner (a little dirty) or up the low angle face protected by sequential small crack systems. Climb at least 55' to a funky belay on ledge to the left, or continue up another 15' to a more secure belay in the bushes. Walk off the east side and then curve around north and then back into the picnic area.

Protection [Edit]

Take a simple rack of medium to small cams, maybe a #2 camalot at the biggest. Full set of stoppers will be beneficial. Decent amount of slings and all that jazz.
First pitch is a great lead for first timers. Takes nuts way better than cams, but that makes it more fun. Aug 26, 2002
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
My first trad lead, I believe. Fun route, well worth stopping for even if it is only a 5.5. Jun 27, 2004
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
I second the notion that it takes nuts better than cams, I think I used maybe two #1's just for practice. This was my second trad lead and it does have bolted anchors which I don't think the wasatch guide book states. Aug 13, 2006
Walt Haas
Salt Lake City, UT
Walt Haas   Salt Lake City, UT
I believe that the anchor chains at the top are newer than the guide book.

The route description doesn't mention it, but since the upper pitch is much dirtier and less fun than the lower pitch, a more rewarding way to finish is to walk from the chains at the top of the first pitch of Layback Crack south along a wide ledge to the base of Nice Little Crack and Storm Mountain Stupor, either of which is a much more enjoyable second pitch. Mar 28, 2007
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
This was my first all-gear climb, plenty of spots for gear and resting, and quite fun. Jul 14, 2007
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
Walts super on... Do the traverse around from the belay spot on pitch 1. Takes good gear as well if your second is scared. Set up an anchor on the solo climbing bolts/rap bolts. Then do nice little crack or storm mountain stupor.

We did this to avoid the beginning hike over to the slips. Nice alternative.

I only placed 1 nut this time around :) May 18, 2008
Very fun!

There are a couple of tough-to-spot bolt w/ hangers (no chains - bring some webbing and a rap ring) at the very top of the 'island' to rap down (a bit to the right of the last pitch if I recall...goes through bushes though). Jul 1, 2009
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
I thought this was an excellent climb, and would recommend both pitches for beginning trad climbers. The second pitch was not difficult, but still interesting and very worth the time and effort. At the start of the second pitch I tried to go right, but did not find good pro in the dihedral. I backtracked and climbed straight up from the belay for 10-15 feet before returning to the dihedral. Taking this approach has the added benefit of limiting rope drag. At the top of the second pitch, I climbed past the chains and set up a belay using the bush and a few pieces of pro. Walked off. Cams above BD #2 not needed. Oct 15, 2009
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
Fun climb. We skipped the second set of bolts and walked off the back. There is a trail that brings you down by the amphitheater. Nov 11, 2009
Michael Buchanan  
Chill. I have put 5 or 6 beginner leaders on this route, and they all loved it. Chill climbing, great pro. Apr 26, 2010
North East Washington
lunabloomgirl   North East Washington
Really fun little route! Aug 26, 2010
We found a Geo-Cash at the top of this route Sep 11, 2010
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
If you do P2, go through the roofs. Adds some fun, but no harder than 5.7 Jun 14, 2012
There are new anchor chains above and to the right of the first belay ledge near a small tree. They might make sense if climbing just the first pitch lay back. Sep 18, 2013
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
The new anchors here are unnecessary, even for a 5.5 climb. They are in the middle of pitch 2. They are next to a tree. They are next to a gear anchor potential. They are only 20 feet from the prior established belay anchors that reside at a nice ledge. Whoever put these in needs to sell their drill. Pull them and reclaim your hangers before someone else does. Mar 10, 2014
A 70m makes it to the bottom of the route at the top of the 2nd pitch, not too much extra May 1, 2016
At the top of the first belay station ledge I noticed the new anchor chains 20 feet or so above and thought it was a strange place to put chains. But on the rap off I noticed that there was an awesome looking crack system on the slab wall next to layback crack that lead right up to the new chains.

I decided that it looked fun enough to climb. Pro is plentiful and constant. The climbing was a bit dirty but very exciting with a cool fingerlock on the thin crack near the top as the crux. Id say that it sends at about a 5.6 and is WAY MORE FUN than layback crack.

I think that the new chains should stay just for the new route potential. Apr 25, 2017

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