Avg: 2.3 from 200 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||10,496 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||grk10vq on Jun 3, 2001|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Approach: If coming from the pay booth entrance, you will find the Layback Crack by crossing the first foot bridge and turning left down a small path to a few picnic tables (south). You will then follow a well-worn, but overgrown trail along the river to a striking 15' scramble up a corner.
P1: The first pitch starts directly up the obvious right-facing dihedral. Climb this corner for 35 feet and belay at an anchor on the ledge above La Creme De Shorts. For a quick and cleaner option, instead climb the corner for ~50 feet passing the first belay until you reach a wide, horizontal break below a small roof/corner. From here, head up and right across the face to a belay at chains about ~60 feet up. Continue ascending from this belay or lower. Alternatively, and possibly the best option, is to climb pitch 1 and 2 in one long pitch by sticking to the corner and going even higher to another large, right-facing, craggy corner to a belay ledge at the routes 3/4's mark. Another anchor exists here on a huge ledge. Stop here and belay or climb to the rim and build a belay.
P2: Depending on where you stop, this next pitch leaves the first belay and follows the deteriorating and dirty right-facing corner from the first anchor up to another large belay ledge ~75' feet higher. If you skipped the first or second intermediate anchor, continue from the large upper belay ledge to the summit. If heading to the summit, build a belay under the bushes.
P3: If done in three pitches, the third pitch leaves from the larger, upper corner's ledge and involves a short stint up easy, broken terrain to the summit. Build a belay under the bushes.
Descent: If climbing to the summit, walk off the west towards the amphitheater and follow the trial around north and back into the picnic area. Otherwise rappel the route.