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Routes in East Face
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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Skyline Pig S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Tom and Ric Gieman ca. 1991 |
| Page Views: | 10,967 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Marr on Sep 17, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Closure
Details
The seasonal climbing closure are the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Closures
Details
The raptor closures will be the same as for 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Per Sandra Kemp: as of June 4, 2018, the West Face closure starts with Big Sky. There is a metal sign hanging on the first hanger.
Big Sky ascends a shallow corner system up the east face of Kindergarten Rock. The route is actually the retro-bolted start to the Hong-Fiedler Route (5.7+ R/X) that continues past the Big Sky anchors to the summit ridge. Unlike the majority of the routes in the Garden, the rock on Big Sky is very solid. Climb past 4 bolts on great rock with very positive holds (jugs, incuts, and edges) to a 2-bolt anchor.
I wish this climb could have been twice as long as it was. It is a fun route.
Big Sky ascends a shallow corner system up the east face of Kindergarten Rock. The route is actually the retro-bolted start to the Hong-Fiedler Route (5.7+ R/X) that continues past the Big Sky anchors to the summit ridge. Unlike the majority of the routes in the Garden, the rock on Big Sky is very solid. Climb past 4 bolts on great rock with very positive holds (jugs, incuts, and edges) to a 2-bolt anchor.
I wish this climb could have been twice as long as it was. It is a fun route.
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