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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Skyline Pig S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,934 total · 11/month
Shared By: Lance Bischoff on Oct 2, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


The start area is probably 20 yards past the access ramp for Southside Topropes heading N on the dirt and bushes on east side of Grey Rock. It is before Ormes Chimney and is a combo squeeze chimney (facing east, slightly N) and/or face route in overlapped fold (more like a corner than a dihedral). One pitch lead exits the squeeze and a 5-7 foot traverse lands you at a logical place to string a boulder to anchor (or toprope from the scrub pine higher up and extend to the "ledge" in order to see your partner). Some care placing pro (chossy, but not terrible if selective), and legitimate technical moves make this a nice short problem when other nearby mod routes are occupied. A face problem just to the right of this wide crack also offers 5.8 work (no pro) if your toprope is set for additional fun. Betty Barnett, Lance Bischoff.


Hexes/cams, regular stoppers, a few runners, or toprope from scrub tree on descent ramp.


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This is a fun, short route. I chose to do the combo squeeze chimney, vs the face route, and squeeze would be the appropriate word to describe that little section. I would have to say that is the hardest part of the route. It's a great chance to practice chimney moves in a difficult/awkward space. If you choose to toprope it, just watch out for the cactus around the scrub pine that is suggested for the anchor. Don't slap your hand down on one of those little hummers like I did by accident. Dec 17, 2003

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