Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Hong, Steve Gropp, 1975
Page Views: 5,786 total · 27/month
Shared By: Chris R on Jul 31, 2001 with updates from Roger K
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Enjoyable, sustained, and very interesting face climbing on solid rock. Skyline Pig is on the east side of Kindergarten Rock. To access the climb, park at the south parking lot and walk down the road to Kindergarten Rock. Skyline Pig is on the southern end of the east face. Look for new bolts and old pins following a well protected (for garden standards) direct line up a face past some shallow cracks. The route is straightforward but requires good technique and careful balance in places. You will run into two 5.10-level cruxes--the first a pumpy pull over past a bulge about 40 feet up, and the second a balancing act right before the anchors. Rap from the first pitch anchors (a 60m rope will reach, I'm not sure about a 50m). There is a second pitch that face climbs up a large corner past bolts to the two bolt anchor.  Though the climbing isn't as hard, around 5.8, as the first pitch the views are awesome with some fun stemming moves.  You can use a 70m which will barely reach all the way to the bottom for a rappel or to run some laps.

Protection

Recently re-bolted. New bolts supplemented by old drilled angles make for very sure pro. Solid anchors at the top.

Photos

Chris R
  5.10b
Chris R  
  5.10b
Did this route again on 2 July 2002, this time did the second pitch. P2 is a 5.8 stemming pitch of about 40 ft. past three bolts, to anchors. The belay is a hanging belay and isn't really worth the effort. The second pitch isn't all that great, though pitch 1 remains one of the best in the Garden. Jul 5, 2002
Has anyone else found this to be an extremely hard 10b? Have some holds been pulled out maybe? Jun 1, 2004
Scott Edwards
  5.10b
Scott Edwards  
  5.10b
One of the best face routes around. A technical climb and in my opinion the .10b rating is right on. Just remember...when the climbing gets tough, stem (except for the balancing act at the top). A couple options exist at the second bulge, veer left (thin,balancy) or veer right (steep jugs). Oct 5, 2005
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
Ric Geiman's GoG guide suggests this route is 5.11d. I know this may be questioned as a stiff .10b, but we would all agree that this isn't close to .11d. However, about a quarter of the way up the route there is a line of hanger-less bolts that head left over very difficult terrain, and seem to make their way to the present-day anchors at the top of P1. Does anyone have history on this line? Is this perhaps the original line that Geiman referred to as .11d? Has this line ever been climbed? Nov 29, 2007
S.Stelli
Colorado Springs, CO
 
S.Stelli   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Did this route last night - it was very fun. Had to try it twice! Very balancy, very delicate climbing, had to trust my hands a lot more than I'm used to lately.... Will do again! Top right anchor could use some tightening, otherwise it's all good. May 6, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.10b/c
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.10b/c
Finally did the second pitch last night. Not a bad 25' extension. 4 bolts up probably 5.9 terrain to the anchor. It's a hanging belay, and you can either pop up and left to the walk off ramp for Kindergarden Rock, take trad gear and finish a line to the top, or go back down. There is one loose flake around the second bolt of the pitch that is easily avoidable. You will have to bring your partner up from here unless you have a 70m. A 60m will let you rap down to the last bolt where you can downclimb or make another quick rap. May 4, 2011
dancesatmoonrise
  5.10c
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.10c
Rating: Probably an honest modern-day 10c. The old 9+ and 10a ratings would now be a bit of a sand-bag. This is partly due to a large flake that came off about 20' up.

Safety: Caution with what remains of the first flake, 20 feet up, which is just below an obvious blank section (where the old flake was.) We move belayer, dogs, etc, if the leader is using the flake. It is easy enough to avoid with some cool layback moves to the right - increases the difficulty by maybe a letter grade.

I believe the route was retro'ed twice. Once in the 80's, using pins, after which it still carried the "R" rating, and most recently with bolt placements in about 1997. The FP is getting old, but appears to remain serviceable.

Pitch Two: P2 was retro'ed at the same time as P1, and at the time it was a pleasant 5.8 dihedral. The flake on the second pitch is another matter, as Mountainmicah aptly notes. It is very large and loose and should be avoided completely.

Crux: There are three difficulties on the route. The first is the right layback to avoid the flake 20 feet up. Using the flake (as many do) is still a minor crux.

The second crux is at the shallow dihedral just above the flake and blank area. Protection is very good, though it is easier to make the crux clip after pulling the move - the last clip is still at your feet, so not an issue.

The third crux is in the light green lichen area near the top. A fun, balancy series of moves up and left to the belay ledge. Caution for an old broken piton in this area. Don't use it and don't fall onto it. Sticks way out, sharp edges from the broken end, needs to be pulled by someone experienced in route upkeep.

FA: The actual modern-day route takes the line described in Rolofson's 1988 text as "Skyline Pig Direct" and shows a 5.10a rating and FA by Mark Rolofson and Peter Phister, 10/78. Jul 22, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
My favorite 10 in the Garden! Definitely the 10 b/c range. Start on a sharp face climb up to a slight overhang (which I would say is a crux) then move to a fun, short finger crack. After that, it gets somewhat slabby to the finish. Clipping the anchors was definitely the scariest part of it - it requires a very thin, balancing traverse with minimum hand placements, but don't let that stop you! This is a must do. The cruxes are pumpy but fun. Be careful for a few spinning bolts - other than that, it's fairly well-protected.
Descent of first pitch: 60m just barely makes it. Oct 15, 2012
Kyle Rodman
  5.10b/c
Kyle Rodman  
  5.10b/c
Linked the second pitch of this with the first and belayed from the top (the second pitch was actually a lot of fun though a little more loose). I THINK we made it down in one rappel with a 70m. Not sure if this would be the case with being lowered to the ground with the draws still up Jun 30, 2013
Ryan Derrick
Boulder
Ryan Derrick   Boulder
There is a line of bolts immediately to the left of Skyline Pig, but I can't find info on the route. I tried it on TR...very hard. Long reaches off of sloping crimps. Likely around .12d.
Anybody know what this is? May 8, 2014
Pascal Heger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Pascal Heger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
I tried the route to the left of Skyline Pig today. I broke a pretty crucial undercling to the right of the last bolt before the anchors. It still goes, but go left at the last bolt. I believe it was put up by Jim DiNapoli but was never published anywhere. He called it "The Passion" and rated it .13a. Oct 26, 2014