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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Skyline Pig S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 6,055 ft
GPS: 38.875, -104.879 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,502 total · 460/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a reorganizational entry (thanks to Micah) to help facilitate the L->R sorting, because it "really doesn't make sense when you are going pretty much around an entire rock." This subarea will include routes from the East Face.

Some of the rock on this face is the most solid in The Garden. Enjoy!

Getting There

Park on the southeast side of Kindergarten Rock. Hike up established trails.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

20 Total Climbs

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Location: East Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 62
Big Sky
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 202
New Era
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Bob's Buttress Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
End of an Era
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 42
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy…
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 87
Alligator Soup
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Death of a Dinosaur
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 57
End to End
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Skyline Pig
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
"The Route on the Left" aka Sand…
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
Diesel and Dust
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Beat Me Up, Scotty
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
The Extremist (former entered as…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Anarchy
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Sky
 62
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
New Era
 202
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bob's Buttress Crack
 96
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
End of an Era
 86
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beginning of the End a/k/a…
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Alligator Soup
 87
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Death of a Dinosaur
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
End to End
 57
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Skyline Pig
 35
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
"The Route on the Left" aka…
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Diesel and Dust
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Beat Me Up, Scotty
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Extremist (former enter…
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Anarchy
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Pa…
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Does anyone have information on the crack directly left of New Era? This would be the crack/chimney that is formed on the right side of the face where Diesel and Dust is. There is a pin lower down on the line about 35 feet up. It's not any harder than 5.7. May 22, 2012

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