Type: Sport
FA: Will Gadd, 1988
Page Views: 6,473 total · 28/month
Shared By: Dan Russell on Jul 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2020 Seasonal nesting closures Details
Access Issue: 2020 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Grapefruit Dance is a short, gymnastic, overhanging sport route, one of the few in Garden of the Gods. It is located on the northern end of the west face of North Gateway Rock, just uphill from the Blowouts bouldering area. To reach it, simply approach the bulging overhang on the north end of the west face. Walk along the cliff-line to the most overhanging sport, where you'll find the Blowouts, identifiable by lots of chalk next to a cave. Walk uphill maybe 100 feet. Grapefruit Dance is also covered in chalk, with 4 drilled pins, closely spaced, leading about 35 feet out the overhang to a 2 drilled pin and slings anchor just over the initial bulge.

The climb: scramble awkwardly up the first few feet onto a ledge where you can reach the first bolt. With a small, left-hand crimp, reach out right (5.11) onto good holds. Climb huge crimps past two more bolts (5.10) to a juggy hueco next to the third bolt. Either dyno or get French, but snag the jug above you and clip the 4th bolt before bumping up on slopey crimps to clip the anchor.

Protection

4 drilled pins to a 2 drilled pin anchor, bring 4 quickdraws.

As of 4/11/12, the first pin pulled out, and it was replaced by S. Green within the week!

Photos