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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Will Gadd, 1988
Page Views: 5,669 total, 28/month
Shared By: Dan Russell on Jul 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Grapefruit Dance is a short, gymnastic, overhanging sport route, one of the few in Garden of the Gods. It is located on the northern end of the west face of North Gateway Rock, just uphill from the Blowouts bouldering area. To reach it, simply approach the bulging overhang on the north end of the west face. Walk along the cliff-line to the most overhanging sport, where you'll find the Blowouts, identifiable by lots of chalk next to a cave. Walk uphill maybe 100 feet. Grapefruit Dance is also covered in chalk, with 4 drilled pins, closely spaced, leading about 35 feet out the overhang to a 2 drilled pin and slings anchor just over the initial bulge.

The climb: scramble awkwardly up the first few feet onto a ledge where you can reach the first bolt. With a small, left-hand crimp, reach out right (5.11) onto good holds. Climb huge crimps past two more bolts (5.10) to a juggy hueco next to the third bolt. Either dyno or get French, but snag the jug above you and clip the 4th bolt before bumping up on slopey crimps to clip the anchor.

Protection

4 drilled pins to a 2 drilled pin anchor, bring 4 quickdraws.

As of 4/11/12, the first pin pulled out, and it was replaced by S. Green within the week!
Hanson Smith
Boulder, CO
Hanson Smith   Boulder, CO
So we got on this route today and accidentally pulled off part of the jug for the second clip. We left the hold at the base if anyone feels the need to epoxy it back on. We both did the route afterward and it didn't feel any more difficult. The clip is pretty easy from the next hold anyway. Sorry. May 10, 2012
The first piton on Grapefruit Dance pulled out last week. We replaced it today with a glued-in angle piton. I looked at replacing it with a glue-in bolt, but the hole right now, with a bit of work, accepted another angle better.

We also looked at the mechanics of belaying GD. Most belayers sit away from the wall, so when they catch someone falling on it, an outward force is exerted on that first piton which undoubtedly led to it loosening and eventually pulling out.

Besides this replacement, we also replaced the first bolt on Big Sky on Grey Rock, which had also pulled out, a couple weeks ago. Apr 19, 2012
gunter  
The first pin is gone. Definitely a death route now...smarter pro in a situation like this seems acceptable. I climb in The Gods a lot and have trusted many of pins similar to the one missing, and although I respect the 1st style, in situations like this, safer gea. IMO is logical in order to enjoy the integrity of the climb. Apr 10, 2012
Large undercling above first bolt has broken off, doesn't affect the grade, but the foothold that was there is now slightly more to the right. Still a little movement in what's left, but should be solid for a while. Jun 3, 2011
F.Y.I.: first pin has pronounced movement. Falling here will eventually become interesting. Mar 7, 2010
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
The X doesn't need to be popped off. If you don't want to use it, then don't. Sep 5, 2009
A foothold broke at the crux. This may change the difficulty, or it may not depending on what sequence you use. Nov 8, 2008
The X is ready to break but not needed...the problem is the bees that live in that flake that are the problem. Sep 25, 2008
loc
colorado springs co
 
loc   colorado springs co
 
The X is a bad place to do anything with. Someone needs to pop it off very soon. Jun 5, 2008
Grapefruit Dance now has new modern anchors...stainless steel bolts and descending rings. A special thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware. Jun 8, 2005
Dan Russell  
 
I don't think it broke, but I could be wrong. The jug changes all the time, becoming slopier or juggier depending on the wear. Aug 23, 2004
I was just wondering if the route was 12b in any book really. I thought it was a 12a that packs a punch. Good little route worth doing. Mar 17, 2003
Dan Russell  
 
I've always seen it graded .12a or .12b, usually the latter, in several guides. The one I own is the Soft Touch III guide, which I believe gives it .12b.

Why...do you think it's easier? or harder? Always seemed about on for me.... Mar 17, 2003
So... in which book is this route 12b? Mar 16, 2003
Dan Russell  
 
My brother Jeff repeated this route a couple weeks ago, and the crux bolt (actually a drilled pin) is missing. I'm not sure if it was chopped or pulled out or what, but it's not there. So, now if you biff the crux, you'll take quite a fall, but you shouldn't deck. He still did it, in any case.... Sep 13, 2002
Dan Russell  
 
What's up, Paul? Been climbing at all? Feb 12, 2002
Hey Dan and Jeff! This is Paul Kelly in NH. What's up? Jeff Mead told me to check out this site. This is good stuff when you've got nothing to do in study.... Later, guys. Feb 4, 2002