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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Skyline Pig S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim DiNapoli
Page Views: 1,519 total · 32/month
Shared By: Dave Mason on Oct 29, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route was put up over several years by the late Jim DiNapoli, and he did the first ascent in the summer of 2012. The route is just left of Skyline Pig and shares Pig's anchors. Start with the first few moves of Skyline Pig, and then follow the bolt line up and left. The difficulty increases significantly after the third bolt and does not let up until the anchors.

Protection

12 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Ben Sebald
Colorado Springs, CO
Ben Sebald   Colorado Springs, CO
Thank you so much for putting this up. I tried this thinking it might be Anarchy. Got to that third bolt and thought, "This is crazy!" Now I know why, Thanks. Nov 11, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Thank you for adding this, Dave. I was thinking it about it last year but didn't know if Jim would have wanted it. Correct me if I'm wrong, didn't he originally bolt this in '99 or so, free it, then got the hangers pulled? That's the story I remember hearing. I specifically recall him saying this was the first 13a in Garden (before Ryan's Inferno) which would have to date it back to late '90s? Can you shed any light?
And yes, Ben, it's very hard.... Anarchy is right of Skyline, whereas this is left, as you've found out.... Nov 19, 2014
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
I've always wondered what that line was when climbing Skyline Pig. Thanks so much for putting this up. Nov 26, 2014
Dave Mason  
 
Jordan, as with most things Jim did, there is a story to this route, but I didn't want to put too much out on the web. It would be better discussed over a climb or a beer (or both). I'm finishing up the administration of Jim's estate, and posting this route was one of the last things he asked me to do. With all the political junk surrounding the Garden and all the egos involved, Jim was hesitant to post a new route, claim the first ascent, and grade the route as the most difficult in the Park. Dec 3, 2014
austin bullard
Somewhere
  5.13a
austin bullard   Somewhere
  5.13a
Such a fun rock climb! The first 3/4 of the climb is fun 5.11 with some harder moves peppered in. The last 20 feet is by far the hardest part. Surprisingly weird slab. Dec 3, 2017
Joe Leach
Colorado Springs, CO
Joe Leach   Colorado Springs, CO
Pulled a pair of draws off the anchors today, DM me with the description, and I'm happy to get them back to you! Feb 3, 2018
Dan Swann
Colorado Springs
  5.12d
Dan Swann   Colorado Springs
  5.12d
Myself and Brad Saren worked this in the fall of last year and both got our redpoints. Sad to say, because I’m still searching for my first 5.13; it is not 5.13. It is a solid 5.12d. If you took out the mid-route rest, it might get a 13, but you can get back to 100% before you tackle the 12c/d upper section. If you want to call BS to this, please hop on The Inferno or Triple Exposure, and then you will see that this is NOT a 5.13 for the area. May 1, 2018

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