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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Skyline Pig S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dan Durland, 1991
Page Views: 2,576 total · 12/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


The first route right of Bob's Buttress Crack (and the only route between Bob's and Ormes' Chimney), ascends the slightly overhanging face on solid, incut holds, with some old drilled angles for pro. Climb straight up the face, passing the Bob's Buttress belay on the right, to another two-pin anchor about 15 feet up.

Rap off from here. There is a bit of a runout to the first pin.

Per Tim Stich: This route at one time had 4 pins, but now only one remains. An epoxy hole shows where one pin once sat. At present, toproping the route from the chain anchor on Bob's Buttress Crack is your best bet.

This is a combination two entries. To avoid duplication in the database, we've deleted the 2nd entry.


Per Tim Stich: this is the line directly right of Bob's Buttress Crack on the face but before Ormes Chimney.




- No Photos -
The crux move is just below the anchors and used to be protected by a bolt. The bolt is no longer there which makes this climb much more interesting. However before the crux there is the option to do a short, easy traverse to the left to the anchors on Bob's Butt Crack if you don't want to risk the possible runout. Oct 26, 2001
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
This would indeed be more interesting without that last bolt/pin (I'm remembering a drilled pin and not a bolt, but it's been a while). Was it chopped or did it just come out? Oct 26, 2001
Originally the route was unnamed, way back then I figured it was just a route why would it need a name? Later on Sandy Monster stuck as the incut holds would collect sand after a good rain; always a sign of high quality stone.

In 1988, I put in 4 drilled pins to a 2 pin anchor with webbing and I do recall that it was a fair distance (10ft +/-) to the first pin but the climbing was easy. Somewhere along the way I heard that some of the protection changed or was moved but I do not know the details as I have not been up there in years. Dec 20, 2001
I was the coward listed above (oops, I forgot to put in my name). It may have have been a drilled pin (I don't know because I didn't see anything). When I climbed it last fall I couldn't find the pin/bolt and my second couldn't either. I thought we were just blind and had missed it but then talking to another local climber about it he said it was no longer there, so I thought I would just pass along what we saw (or should I say didn't see). I plan to go look when it gets warmer and will make certain if the pin is there or not. I would hate to be giving bad information just because none of us could see it, so if anyone knows otherwise for sure please post a message. Jan 24, 2002
We checked this route out the other day, and could see no fixed pro at the crux either. Unless you can pull 5.9+ face moves in your sleep, I would highly advise the traverse to the Bob's Butt Crack anchors after pin 2. May 30, 2002
Verified it finally, the pin was pulled by the looks of the hole where it used to be. Jul 1, 2002
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
The first and third pins are gone...the first pin is now about 40' off the deck with 5.7ish moves to get to it. Mar 15, 2004
Spooky...we all know the story with the runout to the first pin in the garden, but give me a break here...40 feet above a 40% grade full of microwave sized boulders is not exactly how most of us spell party. Call me a weenie all you want, but will someone please retrobolt the start to this thing? I won't tell if you wont... Mar 30, 2004
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
That wouldn't offend my sensibilities, keeping in mind that my middle name is "Yella". I thought it was a bit runout, even by GoG standards, when there were still three pins. Mar 30, 2004
Kris Carter  
This would be a great one to rebolt - I took the easy way - on TR after doing Bob's Butt Crack. Lots of fun moves - it must be less than the 5.9+ if you just go to the BBC anchors. Worth the time, but can't say enough that this one seems like it could be a great sport climb if anyone wanted to be that cool. Apr 1, 2004
Colorado Springs
Andito   Colorado Springs
This used to be one of my favorite leads back in the mid-nineties. I moved away for about ten years, and when I got back, half the bolts were missing. I climbed it from the End of an Era anchor the other day and remembered why I loved it so much. I'd like to re-bolt this. Does anybody know the policy on bolting at The Garden? (i.e. should it be done at four a.m. with a full moon, or is noon on a Saturday fine?) May 28, 2010
Brian Shelton and I, along with David Mason and Robb Conner, took out the old pitons and rebolted Sandy Monster and End to End with beefy new bolts. Some of the angles were solid, but most came out without too much work. So climb on.... Thanks, Dave and Robb, for buying the hardware! Aug 18, 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
S.Stelli   Colorado Springs, CO
Thanks for the new hardware on this great route! Very fun! Aug 27, 2012
I climbed this route yesterday, and the nut on the second to last bolt (crux protection) was loose. I didn't have a wrench on me, so I tightened it as best I could with my fingers. The bolt itself appeared solid. Dec 8, 2014
Kyle Fahrenkrug
Fort Collins, CO
Kyle Fahrenkrug   Fort Collins, CO
Did this route a week ago. Very fun route, but one of the top 2 bolts (sorry I do not remember specifically which one) is INCREDIBLY loose. I did not have the tools to tighten it, but I highly recommend someone does before anyone else climbs it. Sep 11, 2016
The 4th bolt up is bad news. It has been fallen on several times and can no longer be relied on. While testing it, I could pull it out of the hole relatively easily with just my fingers. A wrench on it was successful in tightening it until weight was applied to the hanger. It appears that this one has been replaced previously (or perhaps someone drilled a new hole?). At any rate, I wouldn't recommend climbing above this bolt until it has been repaired/replaced.

Update: today (2017-06-20) a climbing party went past the bolt and said that it seemed a-ok. I'm skeptical, but use your best judgment on it. He said that it appeared to have been tightened down. Jun 15, 2017
Sandra Kemp  
This is in bad shape. The second bolt is gone, making for a long and dangerous runout to the third bolt. The third bolt is spinning. Jun 1, 2018
Davis Badger
Colorado Springs, CO
Davis Badger   Colorado Springs, CO
Echoing Sandra, as of a few weeks ago the 2nd bolt is missing, leaving some of the hardest moves of the climb completely unprotected. The climb is essentially unclimbable until the bolt gets replaced. Trying to skip over to the 3rd bolt would make a groundfall possible for 15-20 feet of pumpy moves. I would highly recommend staying off until it can get fixed. Jul 8, 2018
A few days ago, Brian Shelton, CJ Sidebottom, and myself with the Fixed Hardware Committee for the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance replaced the missing 3rd and 4th bolts with glued-in Wave bolts. Hopefully these will hold, since the epoxy is stronger than the rock. That said, the sandstone in that section of the route is like dry brown sugar, and the holes for the bolts took about 10 seconds to drill. Sep 29, 2018

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