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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Ric and Cindy Geiman in 1990
Page Views: 5,199 total, 27/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Nov 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is the first sport route left of New Era. Start on moderate ground, crimping up solid, incut, iron-oxide rails. Move left and up, then over a bulge (crux), then right to anchors. This is very soft 5.11. A second pitch exists, which is rated 5.11, but it is more like mid-range 5.10, and is high quality face climbing on good holds in an awesome position. Do both pitches, rap once with two ropes, twice with one.

Protection

Some draws.
Canyon Lester
  5.11a
Canyon Lester  
  5.11a
First few bolts are easy. Holds are easy to find. Good variety of small ledges, sidepull, even an undercling, and a multi-finger pocket. 2nd to last bolt up to the anchor gets pretty pumpy. Great route. Watch out for storms rolling in. Good times. Jul 9, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Great 11a. Climb cut face holds to honeycomb looking things to more cut, slanted, face holds. Great, sustained climb! Nice rap rings at the top, too! Oct 15, 2012
Mike Slavens
Houston, TX
  5.11a
Mike Slavens   Houston, TX
  5.11a
Definitely a "feel good" 5.11, but fun nonetheless. It's rare to find solid crimps like this at the Garden which is the land of sand and home of "pull down not out". Dec 29, 2009
Second pitch anchors replaced in the fall of 2008. Mar 26, 2009
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Jeremy,
I assume you're referring to the slings at the top of the New Generation pitch (according to D'Antonio's guide). This is the alternative pitch 2 above Diesel and Dust that traverses right for about 20 feet from the chains atop D&D P1 (as opposed to the true D&D P2 that goes straight up from the chains and has no anchors or slings at the top - they got chopped years ago).

If so, I agree. A buddy and I did this pitch a few weeks ago. We weren't too confident in the webbing or the stacked pins, and didn't think that rapping would be a great idea. Instead, we thought it safer and quiet easy to traverse right from the anchors and downclimb into the P2 belay alcove of New Era.

Not too many folks climb the New Generation pitch, but this would be a good one to have a knife on. That webbing certainly needs to go. Jun 9, 2008
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
The slings at the top of this are in need of replacing. Both looked rotten and old. Jun 7, 2008
Dan Dalton
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Dan Dalton   Boulder, CO
  5.11
FA: Ric and Cindy Geiman in 1990. Oct 12, 2007
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Did both pitches yesterday for the first time. I've done the first pitch many times, but never went on to second. Found second to be a lot of fun. Crux comes early, between the second and third bolt. Slightly overhanging on thin hands. I felt the P2 crux move was harder than any single move on the first pitch. After that the grade eases to .9 climbing to the anchors. We couldn't find P2 anchors, and ended up traversing 20 feet left on easy terrain to the P2 Alligator Soup anchors. Both pitches make for a great climb. Jul 23, 2007
loc
colorado springs co
 
loc   colorado springs co
 
Anyone know what the second pitch is like? Mar 22, 2007
Diesel and Dust now has new beefy stainless steel anchors, courtesy of Climbing Magazine and Petzl. Sep 19, 2005
WARNING! As of today someone had removed the hangers from the anchors at the top of pitch two. Jan 1, 2005
Confused about this route: at the top, before the angle kicks back, I always traverse right up a small ramp, make the last clip awkwardly, then move up and back directly left to get to the anchors. This seems so weak to me, doesn't follow the line of protection, and leaves me feeling like I still haven't climbed this route. But I've dogged for minutes on end contemplating that last steep section that stays true to the line of bolts and can't even see a hold. Any help on this? Pura vida. Sep 10, 2004