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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ric Geiman, 1994
Page Views: 2,383 total, 17/month
Shared By: Rik Anderson on Mar 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a newer sport route on Kindergarten Rock. This climb is the second climb to the left of Diesel Dust. Start it by doing the bouldery crux moves after you clip the first bolt, move through the second bolt. After that, it begins to ease a little. Clip 5 more bolts to get to the anchor.

Location

This is on the East face of Kindergarten Rock. (I refer to the whole rock as Kindergarten, it's been called that from the '80s.)

Protection

9 QDs.

Photos

Just sent second go today. Very fun, but I swear to God, if you go straight up through the crux after the second bolt (moving from sloper up to right hand side pull), this route would be at least 12d if not 13a. I know saying that might cause some contention, but that's my opinion. I don't know if a foot hold broke out right or something, but as of now, that boulder problem is like V8. ANYWAY if you use the holds out left, then make the thin traverse back right to the third clip. It was very enjoyable with a sweet cross move. Feb 10, 2017
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
Yeah, except that both are "not considered .12a today". The Extremist is .12a or a/b, and Anarchy is .12c. Jan 19, 2015
This one is called The Extremist. Confusion comes from some old guidebook errors. FA 1994. Jan 19, 2013
Cody C. If I'm not mistaken, the original name of the route Anarchy downhill was Question Authority, and was given a stiffer grade, maybe 12c. Civil Disobedience is the route now called The Extremist. Both are considered 12a today. The second bolt on The Extremist definitely needs replacing. Jan 24, 2012
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
FA: Ric Geiman. Feb 4, 2010
The second clip is sketchy, and the hanger on the bolt spins. Cool route though.

Also, the crux is made significantly easier via a hold out left. I don't if that is considered off route, but if so it's contrived because you can go about 4 feet to the left of the bolt line, still able to clip the bolts. This does, however, make the top part a bit harder. Oct 26, 2008
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This route is referred to as "The Extremist" in both D'Antonio's and Geiman's GoG guidebooks. If Civil Disobedience is any type of reference to the route Anarchy, that route is actually downhill a little, between Beat Me Up Scotty and Skyline Pig. Both routes are rated 5.12a/b. Nov 29, 2007
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Just a note - the anchors at the top of the route could use a new, beefy rap chain, much like those added to other routes. One of the two anchors will move laterally in the hole, so the strength of this pair is basically reduced to the other bolt. I would certainly do this myself, but I know that new drilling is sensitive in the Garden, and there is a group of retro-bolters that have a good relationship with the Parks management at the Garden. I've suggested this replacement to them already.

Thanks so much to Stewart, Brian, and crew for replacing so many anchors. The Garden is a great, safe place to climb because of you guys. Thanks to Petzl and Climbing Mag for donating the gear as well. Nov 9, 2007