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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1 Leonard Coyne, Ed Russell, 9/77, P2 Ric and Cindy Gieman, 1991
Page Views: 7,521 total, 46/month
Shared By: Chamo Breslin on Jun 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This quality route ascends the crisp, solid stone on the SE face of Kindergarten Rock by way of positive edges, fun reaches, and a crux, semi-thin sidepull.

To find the start, hike up the climber's trail across the road from the Snake Pit, as per New Era. As you hoof it up, look at the cliff ahead of you and find the sloping ramp that angles up and left with a patch of green lichen on it, just left of New Era's obvious dihedral. Or, get to the base of New Era, admire the 1st steep line of bolts climber's left (Diesel to Dust, .11a), and take three steps further left to the 2nd line. This is your climb.

Two starts are possible: gain the first hanger by using the ramp to traverse left and slightly up. This has positive hands but slim feet. Or, move straight up the thing layback, gain the ramp with your feet, and traverse left with good feet and ok hands to clip the second bolt - both work fine. From here, move up past two bolts to your well-protected crux. Once through, it's beautiful black and gold sandstone (limestone strata is rumored) with fun movement to the anchor. 7 or 8 quickdraws should do it.

Stewart Green's guide lists the 2nd pitch as 5.11d with two technical roofs and good rock. He also lists an .11a variation to the 1st pitch by moving right at the third bolt to an old pin, then moving back to the original line.

Protection

Only quickdraws needed; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch. Not sure what's on top of the 2nd?

Photos

Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
The second pitch is really fun and very well-protected. You may want to extend your draws under the roofs to reduce rope drag. Aug 9, 2016
Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
  5.9+
I climbed here yesterday, and I found the new bolt line to be very natural and just perfect. Loved this climb. Aug 31, 2014
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
The bolt line has been altered and a new bolt added. Not sure when or by who, but the person probably could of saved money by getting rid of the first, weird clip and getting people to stick clip the second. Guess it's sort of better.
Jul 30, 2014
JShin
Centennial, CO
  5.9+
JShin   Centennial, CO
  5.9+
No need to do traverse to clip to the first bolt. It was relocated recently. May 31, 2013
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9+
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9+
You can reach Diesel and Dust Anchors without too much trouble from the Alligator Soup anchors if you are in to practicing Diesel on TR. Dec 13, 2010
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9+
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9+
Fun first pitch! If you use the anchors to rappel off of New Era, toprope it before you pull the rope. Mar 29, 2008
Alligator Soup now has new anchors courtesy of Climbing Magazine and Petzl. The two old coldshuts on 3/8" bolts are wearing through due to top-ropers not using draws on the anchors. Now they're safe! Sep 19, 2005
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Good stone over in this area - this route is no exception. Bad karma for whoever pilfered the hangers.... Probably best to replace them and return to karma neutral. Jun 28, 2005
WARNING! As of today someone had removed the hangers from the anchors at the top of pitch two. Jan 1, 2005
kevin jenkins
  5.9+
kevin jenkins  
  5.9+
I had a blast on this route. I took a fairly in-experienced climber on this, and he was pushed and pumped. There is a bit of a runout on the first pitch (what G of G route doesn't?), so I wouldn't recommend this a a first lead, but with a little ingenuity and some spare webbing, you too can have a great day at the Garden. Climb safe, y'all. Sep 4, 2004
Rookie mistake: pitch one is not rated 15.9. Should be p1, 5.9/p2, 5.11d. Sorry about that. Jun 18, 2004