Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1 Leonard Coyne, Ed Russell, 9/77, P2 Ric and Cindy Gieman, 1991
Page Views: 9,897 total · 51/month
Shared By: Chamo Breslin on Jun 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


97 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2020 Seasonal Closure Details
Access Issue: 2020 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This quality route ascends the crisp, solid stone on the SE face of Kindergarten Rock by way of positive edges, fun reaches, and a crux, semi-thin sidepull.

To find the start, hike up the climber's trail across the road from the Snake Pit, as per New Era. As you hoof it up, look at the cliff ahead of you and find the sloping ramp that angles up and left with a patch of green lichen on it, just left of New Era's obvious dihedral. Or, get to the base of New Era, admire the 1st steep line of bolts climber's left (Diesel to Dust, .11a), and take three steps further left to the 2nd line. This is your climb.

Two starts are possible: gain the first hanger by using the ramp to traverse left and slightly up. This has positive hands but slim feet. Or, move straight up the thing layback, gain the ramp with your feet, and traverse left with good feet and ok hands to clip the second bolt - both work fine. From here, move up past two bolts to your well-protected crux. Once through, it's beautiful black and gold sandstone (limestone strata is rumored) with fun movement to the anchor. 7 or 8 quickdraws should do it.

Stewart Green's guide lists the 2nd pitch as 5.11d with two technical roofs and good rock. He also lists an .11a variation to the 1st pitch by moving right at the third bolt to an old pin, then moving back to the original line.

Protection

Only quickdraws needed; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch. Not sure what's on top of the 2nd?

Photos